South of the Border

Pancho Villa State Park is just two miles or so from the border. After checking to make sure that my identification documents were adequate to get me back into the USA, I made my plans to go to Mexico.

Mexican Flag

I had two objectives: get my teeth cleaned and then use those clean teeth to have lunch.

I walked across the border. It seemed odd not to have to cross a bridge to get into the neighboring country. After all, I grew up crossing between Buffalo, New York and Fort Erie, Ontario.

The Peace Bridge

Here, though, I just parked and walked across. There’s mile 0.

Mile 0

I saw a sign for a dental clinic, so I made my way over there. Clean teeth was the first thing on my agenda.

Dental clinic

It was kind of a “down home” office.

Basin in the office

It had kind of old equipment, but everything went well. When I told the dentist that I had forgotten to take the antibiotic I needed to take due to my knee replacement, he went over to a nearby pharmacy and got me what I needed. The assistant got me a glass of water from a fresh bottle, and the cleaning went well.

I strolled about a bit and then headed over to The Pink Store, which had been recommended to me.

The pink store

And, yes, it is pink!

Of course, there is absolutely nothing that I need, but I did have to look at what they had to offer.

Pink store inside 3

Hat and pots.

Pink store inside 2

Pots and baskets.

Pink store inside 1

Whimsical statues.

And then I found a spot for lunch at the back of the store.

Chips and salsa

I ordered a Bohemia beer and the waiter brought me chips and salsa. Delicious!

General Guererro Caldillo

The General Guererro Caldillo was my choice for lunch, which was a spicy beef and vegetable stew. It came with beans, rice and tortillas. Again, delicious!

Pink store restaurant

When I got outside, I saw that I had eaten in a restaurant that had been operating since 1910. I wonder if Pancho Villa had eaten there?

Speaking of Pancho Villa…

Pancho Villa statue

There is a statue of him in the square.

Pancho Villa Statue rear view

Quite a dynamic statue!

And then it was time to head back.

Food Trucks on the street

There were food trucks lining the street leading to the port of entry.

Border marker

I crossed back over, had my papers checked, got in my car and headed back to camp.

Another beautiful sunset.

Sunset 3

Next stop: Arizona

Training Ground for World War I

Pancho Villa State Park is quite a remarkable place. Some parks are notable for their beauty. This is not this park’s claim to fame. It’s a dusty, windblown plain. It does have a a sparse beauty, but what is remarkable about this place is its historical significance.

On March 9, 1916, Villa led an army of about 1,500 guerillas across the border to stage a brutal raid against the small American town of Columbus, New Mexico. Villa and his men killed 19 people and left the town in flames.

Pancho villa on a horse photo

According to the information at the park, this was the last time an enemy invaded the United States. Now, I think I have heard things about raids during World War II, but even if there were other attacks, this one is significant for many reasons.

President Wilson ordered General John Pershing to lead 6,000 American troops into Mexico and capture Villa. For nearly two years, Pershing and his soldiers chased the elusive Villa on horseback, in automobiles, and with airplanes. The American troops had several bloody skirmishes with the rebels, but Pershing was never able to find and engage Villa.

These were the last major battles fought on horseback and the first battles that used automobiles and airplanes.

Plane and car

General Pershing ordered 250 Dodge Brothers touring cars after a successful skirmish involving three of the cars. Lieutenant George S. Patton, nine enlisted men and a scout killed three Villistas, including General Julio Cardenas. Pershing said that they couldn’t have done it on horseback. The interesting thing was that gas sometimes followed the automobiles packed on mules.

Four wheel drive auto co nameplate

There were a variety of vehicles they were trying out. I wonder what ever happened to The Four Wheel Drive Auto Company of Clintonville, Wisconsin?

Tank prototype

This was kind of a prototype of the modern tank. The little doors on it opened up so that the soldiers inside could fire their rifles.

Camp Furlong grew quickly as Pershing assembled  his troops.

Camp Furlong photo of tents

They used tried and true methods as well as taking advantage of innovations.

Homing pigeon crate
Homing pigeon crate

The signal corps used homing pigeons as well as flags, morse code, bugles and megaphones to communicate.

comunication equipment

They chased Pancho Villa’s army around Mexico for almost two years until Mexican president Carranza withdrew his permission.

Panco Villa's army moving about by train
Panco Villa’s army moving about by train

From what I’ve read, Villa’s army had whole families traveling with them and women were fighters, too.

Woman making tortillas in Pancho villa's army

Even if women fought, they were still given the domestic tasks. Here’s a villista making tortillas. Some things never change.

political cartoon

This political cartoon kind of sums things up.

Even if Pershing was never able to catch up with Pancho Villa, at the end of the excursion into Mexico, he had put together an organized and disciplined army just in time for the United States’ entry into World War I.

This is rather ironic. Germany had proposed an alliance with Mexico intended to keep the USA out of WW I. If you would like to find out more about this, look into the Zimmerman Telegram.

I was at the park just before the centennial of Pancho Villa’s raid. It is amazing what is left behind. My campsite was right across the road from the first military airbase. Cloth-covered biplanes flew from this spot to provide reconnaissance for the Army.

First airfield

Incidentally, air reconnaissance is still used in the area. Now a days, though, it is used to control the border.

Survelience balloon

I didn’t have the right camera to capture a good image, but the white dot in the sky above the roof is some sort of blimp. I asked the volunteer at the museum about it, and he told me that is is packed with all sorts of sensing devices to monitor what is happening in the desert.

Some of the original Camp Furlong buildings from before the raid still stand. The remains of adobe structures are protected by shelters.

Judge Advocates Office Camp Furlong

This is the Judge Advocate’s Office.

Headquarters builcing camp furlong

This is the Headquarters building.

Rusted wheel

I imagine that someone dug up this rusted bit of machinery and just propped it against a tree.

Touring car with bullet holes

This car was inside the museum, as a testament to the violence of the raid. The driver was killed, and the family donated it to the museum.

Close up of the bullet holes

Just look at those bullet holes! It must have been quite an attack.

U.S. Customs House built 1901
U.S. Customs House built 1901

Other buildings in the park from the era are in better shape than the adobe ones. They were painting the U.S. Customs House while I was there.

Old US Customs house built 1901

The Recreation Hall was also still standing, although not open to visitors.

Camp Furlong Rec Hall

Just across the street was the Columbus History Museum.

Old Train Station

It was in the old train station. They have one train car left on a length of track. It was staffed by a work camper – a volunteer who works in exchange for a campsite. She was quite the traveler! At 80, she is still rolling strong. We complimented each other on not looking our ages and then I went through the three rooms in the museum.

The first room was dedicated to Pancho Villa’s raid.

SAfe from bank

This is the door to the bank’s safe.

Safe with bullet hole marked

Complete with bullet hole.

toilet humor

The middle room was dedicated to the railroad history of the area.

Fire Exteinguisers

They had a nice collection of fire extinguishers. It reminded me of the lamp my father made for me out of the one that was in our house in Kenmore, New York.

The back room as dedicated to daily life. It is kind of disheartening to find things that you actually owned and used on display in a history museum.

Brownie Hawkeye

Just like this Brownie Hawkeye camera.

kitchen ware

And bits and pieces from kitchens.

Tools

And tools. Or parts of tools.

Thumb cuffs and badge

And Stephan Birchfield’s thumb cuffs, badge and mouth harp from the 1930’s or 1940’s.

It’s one of those museums where you leave feeling like you have been looking through someone’s attic or garage.

I worked my way back to my camp site.

Flo in the park

A good day of “touristing” and I was rewarded by another lovely sunset.

Sunset 2