My Second Day in New Orleans

After being out until all hours, I didn’t exactly pop awake at the crack of dawn.

Okay, I realize that my idea of being out late is rather tame, when you compare it with other people’s behavior. However, I am not other people!

I managed to make it out of the park and walk about two blocks over to St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in time to take a tour. I think I got on the last tour of the day. Am I lucky or what?

Tour Guide
Tour Guide Nate Scott

There were about twenty people on my tour. At $20 a head, that was quite a haul for an hour’s work! I hope he was well-paid because he gave an interesting tour.

These old cemeteries are frequently called “Cities of the Dead”. I swear that I heard the guide say that Mark Twain was the first one to use that term about the cemeteries in New Orleans, but I haven’t found any attribution on line anywhere. Even if Mark Twain didn’t say it, these old cemeteries do certainly look like small cities.

City of the Dead
City of the Dead

There are nice neat “houses” surrounded by wrought iron fences.

City of the Dead
City of the Dead

You almost expect some one to come out, get in their car and drive away.

perpetual care 2

The really nice looking ones have these plaques on them that indicate that the family has purchased a plan to maintain the tombs.

without perpetual care

If the plan wasn’t purchased and there are no family members surviving to keep up the graves, they eventually fall apart.

Alleged grave of Marie Leveau the Voodoo Queen
Alleged grave of Marie Laveau the Voodoo Queen

Our guide brought us to this tomb and said that it was the alleged grave of Marie Laveau the Voodoo Queen. Now, I have to admit that I don’t know much about the topic. Actually, I don’t know enough to even say that I don’t know much. I have done a little research on the web since taking the tour, but I still couldn’t tell you anything with confidence.

So, let me share the little bit I picked up from the tour.

He told us that people still came to seek Marie Laveau’s help. Some want to stop smoking, others to quit drinking, other have personal requests. They knock on the tomb and ask her for help. They leave items at the tomb that represent the help they are seeking and walk away.

Now, the first tomb he showed us isn’t the real tomb. I’m not sure why there is a plaque on it that says it is the alleged tomb of Marie Laveau. It may be that it was her daughter’s tomb, who was named Marie Leveau II.

Real grave of Marie Laveau the Voodoo Queen
Real grave of Marie Laveau the Voodoo Queen

This is the real grave of Marie Laveau the Voodoo Queen, at least according to the guide. He said that people would write XXX on the graves as part of a ritual involving getting their wishes granted.

XXX on the tomb
XXX on the tomb

This is all new to me and I had a hard time hearing him over the ambient noise.

Nicolas Cage's Tomb
Nicolas Cage’s Tomb

The tombs are not all old. This one is awaiting the remains of Nicolas Cage’s family.

tall mausoleum

The guide told us that these were built by various groups – usually by ethnicity. He pointed out the damage on this tomb and said it was caused during the filming of Easy Rider.

Damage done during the filming of Easy Rider
Damage done during the filming of Easy Rider

I hate to admit it, but I have never seen Easy Rider. It came out in 1969, and I was far too young to have seen it at that time. After that, it was just an “old movie.” After reading up on the movie, I have to say that I don’t think that it would be my cup of tea.

In researching the movie and such, I came across this photo that ties in with the one I took.

Easy Rider Acid trip

And now time for a little snickering at funny names.

Poupart

Would you want to be buried in the Poupart family tomb?

It does illustrate that this is an active cemetery with burials still taking place.

Another noteworthy site is The New Orleans Musicians Tomb. Since the 1800’s, it has been uses by the Sacred Union Society and the Barbarin Family. It s now also used as the New Orleans Musician’s Tomb. The first musician buried there was Lloyd Washington from the Ink Spots in 2004.

New Orleans Muscians Tomb plaques

These plaques are on the back side of the tomb.

New Orleans Muscians Tomb graveside

Our guide pointed out that the graves had been broken into by thieves looking for anything they could sell, such as gold teeth or jewelry.

fern in tomb

Many of the tombs are in need of maintenance and I hope they receive it.

We all paid at the end of the tour. If anyone wants to take a tour with Nate Scott, He would be glad to show you around. (I know this because he gave each of us his business card on the way out.

So, I started walking over toward the neighborhood that was the site for the Tit Rex parade. I walked and snapped photos of things that caught my interest.

Half a house is better than none
Half a house is better than none

Just a little slip of a house tucked into the corner of a lot. Maybe there was a bigger house in front of it at one time.

Armstrong park

I passed Armstrong Park with the Mahalia Jackson Theater visible in the background. According to tourist information, it is an interesting park but I didn’t have time for that. I had another parade to get to!

Twin houses
Twin houses

I walked past houses that probably started life as twins.

I don't think so
I don’t think so

And I passed a tattoo parlor. I didn’t even consider stopping. I had a destination in mind – a restaurant that Lisa had recommended.

Buffa's Lounge

I got a seat in the backroom and ordered a Buffa burger – a half-pound of blackened ground beef, topped with cheddar cheese and sauces of some sort. I don’t know what sauce was on it, but after three treatments with Shout and wash cycles, I almost have the spots out.

There were musicians getting set up, but I left before they began. For one thing, my table was right in front of the speakers. And, I had a parade to get to!

Too much is just enough
Too much is just enough

I walked past many houses that really got into the spirit of things. It’s not clear in this photo, but the tree on the left side of the porch is decorated with beer cans.

Yodamn Right!
Yodamn Right!

This guy was apparently heading in the same direction as me, but walking about twice as fast.

What to do with all the beads

This house gave me an idea of what I could do with all those beads I got last night. Understated, yet elegant.

Colorful houses

These houses are in Marigny, and you can really see how tiny Bernard de Marigny cut those lots. You’d just about have to go outside to change your mind – and this is doing from a woman who lives in an Airstream!

Waiting for Tit Rex

I found a good spot to wait for the parade. And I waited.

wigs

And I waited. Hmm…maybe I should have gotten a wig.

weather vane

I looked at the buildings nearby. Oh look! A weather vane!

porch

Cute porch!

Fleur di lies

I reflected that I expected to see a Boy Scout convention, with all the fleur de lis all over town.

Then I realized that I was really tired of waiting. I enjoyed the parades the day before. I decided I had enough. And so I started walking toward the river.

Cafe du Monde

Another round of beignets and cafe au lait was just what the doctor ordered!

leftover sugar

It was a sweet ending to my New Orleans adventure.

 

New Orleans!

One of my father’s stories from his time in the service was about taking the train from basic training  near Washington DC to the west coast to get to his post in Alaska. He woke up while he was crossing Lake Pontchartrain and couldn’t figure out where he was. There was water on each side of the train and it went on and on.

His birthday fell while I was staying at Fontainebleau State Park, and I decided to celebrate his birthday by driving across the causeway to New Orleans. Last year, I went to one of his favorite restaurant chains for dinner.

Dad's birthday celebration 2015 Tucson, Arizona
Dad’s birthday celebration 2015 Tucson, Arizona

This year, I decided to celebrate by driving across Lake Pontchartrain on the Causeway from Mandeville into the New Orleans.

causeway 1

The Causeway is about 24 miles long and skims along about 15 feet above Lake Pontchartrain.

causeway 2

It cost $3 to cross from the north side, in Mandeville, and no toll is collected on the return trip.

Causeway

The speed limit is 65 mph. Do you know how hard it is to take pictures while zooming along on a two-lane bridge 15 feet over the water? Well, at least it’s a straight road.

The bridge my father crossed back when he was in the service wasn’t as long as this one. It crossed from Slidell to New Orleans. At almost 6 miles long, it is the longest rail bridge over water in the world. At least, I think that is the bridge he crossed. When I was talking with a guy who was trying to sell me a tour, he said that the rail bridge collapsed. So, without digging deeper, I don’t really know.

I didn’t really know where I was going. I kind of worked my way toward the Tourist Information Office my all-powerful phone told me about.

Because Tuesday is already fat enough.
Because Tuesday is already fat enough.

Luckily, I was stopped at an intersection, so I could take a photo of this billboard. It gave me a chuckle.

Streeetcar
Streetcar

I saw a streetcar – but I don’t think it was named Desire.

superdome

And the Superdome. It was right downtown! After living in Buffalo with Rich Stadium (now the Ralph Wilson Stadium) way out in Orchard Park, I assumed all stadiums were way out of town.

I finally got to the address that was listed as the Tourist Information Office, but there was no information to be had. There might have been a Tourist Information Office there at one time, but no longer.

So, I did the next best thing. I put “Cafe du Monde” into the search engine and got directions. I knew that was one place I wanted to go while I was in New Orleans. I found it!

Time to make the beignets
Time to make the beignets

One on-line source said to to go around to the back and watch them make the beignets. And there they were, cranking them out.

After watching the production for a few minutes, I went inside to sample their wares.

beignets and cafe au lait

With their limited menu, it didn’t take long to order and my beignets and cafe au lait were on my table before I knew it. They sure weren’t stingy with the powdered sugar!

leftover powdered sugar

This is what was left over after I finished with the beignets.

Even though I ate as carefully as I could, when I left and got ready to cross the street, a fellow tourist smiled at me and said in a heavy drawl, “Either you been eatin’ beignets or you been doin’ cocaine.” I brushed off my face and he grinned and said, “I had ’em, too.”

I walked down Decatur Street. My wonderful phone told me that the Jean Lafitte French Quarter Visitor Center was just a few blocks down, so that is where I headed. I passed the usual assortment of businesses that seek to part tourists from their money.

Pralines
Pralines

I had to go in to sample the pralines. And, I made a discovery – the chocolate pralines tasted just like the fudge my mother made growing up. I could never figure out why what was being sold as “fudge” didn’t seem like Mom’s fudge. Now I know – she was really making pralines.

I got down to the visitor center and it was CLOSED. Dang! I was batting zero on tourism centers. So, I just decided to roam about for a while.

street scene 2

I admired the wrought iron balconies.

cathedral

The St. Louis Cathedral was on the other side of Jackson Square from Cafe du Monde. I got over there just past the time when they let visitors in. I was really batting zero!

mediums at large

Perhaps I should have consulted the fortune tellers that were stationed in the plaza in front of the cathedral.

street scene

It was starting to get cool, so I decided to head back to the campground. I headed toward the levee, which is where I had parked.

Working horse

I passed a string of carriages awaiting passengers. This one looked like he wanted to take a bite out of one.

I could really tell that New Orleans was on low ground. I had to ascend to the levee to get to the river’s edge.

Missisippi River and bridge

The view to the right.

shipping on the big muddy

The view to the left. I imagine this is where they import all the “throwables” for the Mardi Gras parades.

And then it was time to head back, but I knew that I would return.