Just a Little More Buffa-Love

What would a trip to Buffalo be without a shout out to some popular restaurants?

I’ve already given props to Bocce’s Pizza.

Let us not forget to acknowledge Anderson’s. Those look like some mighty adventurous flavors!

If that wasn’t enough sweetness for you, just a block away and across the train tracks, there’s Paula’s donuts. 

If you need a little savory after all that sweet, Ted’s Hot Dogs is right across the street from Paula’s.

I don’t think I partook of any of Anderson’s, Paula’s or Ted’s offerings on this trip. I did visit a new-to-me restaurant in the waterfront area.

I met Susan, a high school chum, and her wife, Kay, for lunch. We got a table overlooking the Buffalo River.

I tell you, this is not the Buffalo I grew up with! (And that’s a good thing.)

When I lived in the area, the Buffalo River was essentially dead. It was so polluted that nothing lived in it. In fact, in 1968, it caught on fire. According to a report from the United States Department of the Interior:

“The Buffalo River is a repulsive holding basin for industrial and municipal wastes,” said the Federal Water Pollution Control Administration.  “It is devoid of oxygen and almost sterile.  Oil, phenols, color, oxy­gen-demanding materials, iron, acid, sewage, and exotic organic compounds are present in large amounts.  Resi­dents who live along its backwaters have vociferously complained of the odors emanating from the river and of the heavy oil films.  In places the river’s surface is a boundless mosaic of color and patterns resulting from the mixture of organic dyes, steel mill and oil refin­ery wastes, raw sewage, and garbage.” 

It sure isn’t that anymore!

I mean, can you imagine how much the river has improved to make a party boat business a viable investment? It looked like those people were having fun!

What a great advertising use of the old grain silos! I know Buffalo drove the demise of the grain business in Minneapolis. I wonder what city took over for Buffalo?

Some structures are coming down. I imagine other things will take their places.

In the meantime, a few baskets of flowers here and there make the area festive.

Some things are gone and some remain.

It’s almost like an archeological dig. You get to wander through the bits and pieces of the past.

After lunch, we wandered over to Canalside, past the ever-present herds of Buffalo.

This is another part of town that has really expanded since I was young. In the photo, you can see the USS Little Rock, which is part of the Buffalo and Erie County Naval and Military Park. There is a lot more here than the only other time I visited the park. The USS Little Rock was commissioned too late to see action during WW II, although it does have an interesting history you can read in the link.

When I taught at Calasanctius Preparatory School, we took the kids on a field trip to see USS The Sullivans. That Fletcher-class destroyer  has a more active history during WW II, as it was launched in April of 1943. This was the first United States Navy ship named in honor of more than one person. The five Sullivan brothers, aged 20 to 27, lost their lives when their ship, USS Juneau, was sunk by a Japanese submarine during the Battle of Guadalcanal in November 1942. This was the greatest military loss by any one American family during WW II.

Excuse the trip down memory lane with no photo to back it up.

The area is abuzz with people enjoying themselves. I think they call this part “the inner harbor.”

Susan, Kay and I were visiting Canalside. According to my Preferred Source, it is “a master-planned neighborhood and festival marketplace within the inner harbor.”  It is located at the western terminus of the Erie Canal.

And you know what products they carried…

“We hauled some barges in our day
Filled with lumber, coal and hay.”

Ah, yes! Buffalo, the Queen City of the Lakes

At least for a while.

Hey! There’s a photo, so it happened!

After this, we bid each other “hasta la vista” and went our separate ways.

I did a little architectural photography while stuck in traffic. I thought the nautical motifs of the ships’ bows was an interesting touch after visiting the harbor – a reminder of Buffalo’s history as an important part of transportation in the 19th and 20th centuries.

In my notes, I titled this photo “Architectural Detail with Hipster.”

I turned on Chippewa and got to Main Street just at the Light Rail was pulling up to a stop. I’m of an age where Chippewa Street was a red light district – a seedy neighborhood that people of repute didn’t visit. It’s certainly doesn’t appear to be that any more.

The train left the stop and I went back to the campground to get Flo ready to leave Buffalo for one last time.

When You’re Alone and Life Is Making You Lonely…

You can always go

DOWNTOWN!

I wasn’t alone or lonely, but I do like going downtown. And, this trip had a special  purpose. I was going to meet up with a college chum and we were going to see SHARK GIRL!

Shark girl!

Why a girl with a shark head? Why not?!

It was as good a place as any to meet up with Sue. I’m sure I hadn’t seen her in at least 30 years – probably more. I saw on Facebook that she was in Buffalo staying at a hotel nearby, so we met up there. I needn’t have worried that I wouldn’t recognize her. She’s barely changed at all!

We caught up on where life had taken us – well, at least some of the high points. While we chatted, we strolled about Canalside, Buffalo’s latest amazing development. They have taken an area that was rather utilitarian – or maybe post-utilitarian – and turned it into a place people want to be.

Paddle boats in the canal
Paddle boats in the canal

This part of the city is the very end of the Erie Canal. A couple of years ago, my friend Kathy, who you may remember from earlier posts, took me over to a part of this development that is the official end of the canal. If I remember correctly, that is. I didn’t get that far this trip. I’ll have to make sure I check it out the next time I am in town.

The canal in this photo has paddle boats for rent, and in the winter, they have skating on it. There are all sorts of attractive seating and things to do all around it.

Building blocks
Building blocks

I am not sure who were having more fun – the adults or the kids.

Miles Gilbert "Tim" Horton
Miles Gilbert “Tim” Horton

A statue commemorating Tim Horton, who played with the Buffalo Sabres from 1972 until his untimely death in 1974. Sue only knew him the name of the donut and coffee shop, which he had founded in 1964 in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. The first US shop was opened in 1985 in Amherst, NY. Now they are all over the place, although they’re not everywhere – at least not yet.

Sue and I parted ways, and I decided to take the Metro. Sue told me that the above ground portion was free. Since I had never ridden it, and it was FREE, why not?

Light rail metro downtown

The Metro Rail service started in 1985, after about six years of construction. It is about six and a half miles long and was originally intended to be the basis of a region-wide light rail transit system. But, funding dried up and Buffalo’s population dropped from around 550,000 in the 1950’s to around 260,000 in 2010. It will be interesting to see what the future holds in store for Buffalo. The downtown certainly has changed since I was a kid, but some things are still here that I remember.

I hopped off the Metro at Lafayette Square.

Soldier and Sailors Monument in Lafayette Square
Soldier and Sailors Monument in Lafayette Square

This monument was in honor of the military who fought to preserve the Union in the Civil War. It was dedicated in 1884 by then Governor Grover Cleveland. Across the square is the Hotel Lafayette.

Hotel Lafayette
Hotel Lafayette

The 1904 building was designed by Buffalo architect Louise Bethune, the nation’s first female professional architect. It was a grand building when it opened,  but suffered when the downtown went into decline. It has been gloriously restored and is absolutely lovely. I was getting hungry and decided to give one of their restaurants a visit.

I selected the Pan American Grill and Brewery. It is decked out in the finest turn of the century decor, with heavy wood carvings and decorations from the Pan American Exposition.

Restaurant Woodwork
Restaurant Woodwork

The Pan[American Exposition Logo
The Pan-American Exposition Logo
I chose the Flatbread Caprese and a seat by the window, so that I could watch all the comings and goings.

Flatbread Caprese
Flatbread Caprese

Apparently, this is quite the location for weddings. Two separate bridal entourages came and went while I was watching. They were heading out with photographers for their portraits.

Ready for a wedding
Ready for a wedding

After lunch, I went back into Lafayette Square to investigate something I noticed.

Buffalo Connect
Buffalo Connect

They have free WiFi in the downtown and Canalside areas! Way to go, Buffalo!

City Hall on Niagara Square
City Hall on Niagara Square

I headed down Court Street toward City Hall on Niagara Square. Yes, that’s the McKinley Monument in front of the City Hall.

Bas RElief building

There is always something to see in Buffalo. I was fascinated by this rather Egyptian-motif building.

Close up
Close up
City Hall
City Hall

City Hall is an Art Deco gem. They started building it in 1929 and it was open for business in 1931 at a cost of about $7 million dollars.

Top of City Hall

The colorful terra cotta tiles are quite distinctive.

Statues of Buffalo’s favorite sons are on either corner.

Millard Fillmore
Millard Fillmore
Grover Cleveland
Grover Cleveland

While I was snapping photos outside, I chatted a bit with a local worker. He encouraged me to go inside an at least check out the lobby – maybe even go up to the observation deck. I thought I might as well. After all, I was in the area and it was FREE.

Wow! Was I glad I did! There were two large murals in the lobby. This one celebrated Buffalo as having benefited from the coming together of agriculture and the railroads. If it had been done about a hundred years earlier, the rail roads would have been replaced with the canals.

Talents diversified find vent in myriad forms
Talents diversified find vent in myriad forms

Opposite that mural was one celebrating the Buffalo’s special position between  Canada and the United States.

Frontiers unfettered by any frowning fortress
Frontiers unfettered by any frowning fortress

As they say in real estate, “Location, location, location.”

It was only 4:45, and the observation deck was still open and there was a sign, “Elevator to observation deck.” I went up.

They lied.
They lied.

The elevator went to the 25th floor and then I had to walk.

I have arrived.
I have arrived.

I took a turn around the observation deck.

Roof tops
Roof tops
Top of the Liberty Bank building
Top of the Liberty Bank building

Interestingly enough, the Liberty Bank used to be named the German American Bank.  World War I caused them to change the name to eliminate the connection with the enemy.

Peace Bridge connecting the United States with Canada since 1927
Peace Bridge connecting the United States with Canada since 1927
Terra cotta tiles at the top
Terra cotta tiles at the top
Terra cotta on the observation deck railing
Terra cotta on the observation deck railing

After a turn around the observation deck, I headed back down to the lobby.

It is a dazzling building, and there is so much to see. There are treasures all over.

Ornamental iron work
Ornamental iron work
Decoration over an entrance
Decoration over an entrance
Statler Hilton
Statler Hilton

This is the view of the Statler Towers from near where Grover Cleveland’s statue is. Perhaps they thought it would be indelicate to have the statue of Millard Fillmore facing what had been the site of his mansion.

Millard Fillmore Mansion
Millard Fillmore Mansion

Before it became the Statler, it was the Castle Inn.

Castle Inn former site of Millard Fillmore's home
Castle Inn former site of Millard Fillmore’s home

Ellsworth Statler built his hotel right on Niagara Square, and it opened in 1923. To insure its success, he bought the other “fancy” hotel in town, the Iroquois Hotel, and closed it down the day the Statler opened. The Statler Hilton closed as a hotel in 1982, although the last I heard was that it was being renovated to serve as a hotel once more.

Back to City Hall
Back to City Hall

The photo shoots are in full swing.

Bride and groom number one
Bride and groom number one

And then there are the others who are waiting, not to mention the limo drivers.

Weddings galore
Weddings galore

So, I headed toward Canalside to pick up  my car.

St. Joseph's Cathedral
St. Joseph’s Cathedral

Hmm. I wonder if it’s open. I’d like to take a look.

Inside St. Joseph's Cathedral - another wedding
Inside St. Joseph’s Cathedral – another wedding

My goodness! It certainly must be wedding season. It was a beautiful day for it.

Under The Skyway
Under The Skyway

I worked my way back over to where I had left Bart. I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the Skyway.

When I was very young, we had taken a ride out to the “country”. I don’t recall what we were doing, but I do remember that we were driving across a field, and somehow the wheel fell off. Dad managed to get it back on – probably using barbed wire from a fence or something. Coming home, we crossed the Skyway. Just to try to ease the tension and make conversation, I remember saying, “I wonder why they make these bridges so high?”

My mother replied, “Uff da! Shut up!”

I’ve always had a special connection with the Skyway.