When You’re Alone and Life Is Making You Lonely…

You can always go

DOWNTOWN!

I wasn’t alone or lonely, but I do like going downtown. And, this trip had a special  purpose. I was going to meet up with a college chum and we were going to see SHARK GIRL!

Shark girl!

Why a girl with a shark head? Why not?!

It was as good a place as any to meet up with Sue. I’m sure I hadn’t seen her in at least 30 years – probably more. I saw on Facebook that she was in Buffalo staying at a hotel nearby, so we met up there. I needn’t have worried that I wouldn’t recognize her. She’s barely changed at all!

We caught up on where life had taken us – well, at least some of the high points. While we chatted, we strolled about Canalside, Buffalo’s latest amazing development. They have taken an area that was rather utilitarian – or maybe post-utilitarian – and turned it into a place people want to be.

Paddle boats in the canal
Paddle boats in the canal

This part of the city is the very end of the Erie Canal. A couple of years ago, my friend Kathy, who you may remember from earlier posts, took me over to a part of this development that is the official end of the canal. If I remember correctly, that is. I didn’t get that far this trip. I’ll have to make sure I check it out the next time I am in town.

The canal in this photo has paddle boats for rent, and in the winter, they have skating on it. There are all sorts of attractive seating and things to do all around it.

Building blocks
Building blocks

I am not sure who were having more fun – the adults or the kids.

Miles Gilbert "Tim" Horton
Miles Gilbert “Tim” Horton

A statue commemorating Tim Horton, who played with the Buffalo Sabres from 1972 until his untimely death in 1974. Sue only knew him the name of the donut and coffee shop, which he had founded in 1964 in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. The first US shop was opened in 1985 in Amherst, NY. Now they are all over the place, although they’re not everywhere – at least not yet.

Sue and I parted ways, and I decided to take the Metro. Sue told me that the above ground portion was free. Since I had never ridden it, and it was FREE, why not?

Light rail metro downtown

The Metro Rail service started in 1985, after about six years of construction. It is about six and a half miles long and was originally intended to be the basis of a region-wide light rail transit system. But, funding dried up and Buffalo’s population dropped from around 550,000 in the 1950’s to around 260,000 in 2010. It will be interesting to see what the future holds in store for Buffalo. The downtown certainly has changed since I was a kid, but some things are still here that I remember.

I hopped off the Metro at Lafayette Square.

Soldier and Sailors Monument in Lafayette Square
Soldier and Sailors Monument in Lafayette Square

This monument was in honor of the military who fought to preserve the Union in the Civil War. It was dedicated in 1884 by then Governor Grover Cleveland. Across the square is the Hotel Lafayette.

Hotel Lafayette
Hotel Lafayette

The 1904 building was designed by Buffalo architect Louise Bethune, the nation’s first female professional architect. It was a grand building when it opened,  but suffered when the downtown went into decline. It has been gloriously restored and is absolutely lovely. I was getting hungry and decided to give one of their restaurants a visit.

I selected the Pan American Grill and Brewery. It is decked out in the finest turn of the century decor, with heavy wood carvings and decorations from the Pan American Exposition.

Restaurant Woodwork
Restaurant Woodwork

The Pan[American Exposition Logo
The Pan-American Exposition Logo
I chose the Flatbread Caprese and a seat by the window, so that I could watch all the comings and goings.

Flatbread Caprese
Flatbread Caprese

Apparently, this is quite the location for weddings. Two separate bridal entourages came and went while I was watching. They were heading out with photographers for their portraits.

Ready for a wedding
Ready for a wedding

After lunch, I went back into Lafayette Square to investigate something I noticed.

Buffalo Connect
Buffalo Connect

They have free WiFi in the downtown and Canalside areas! Way to go, Buffalo!

City Hall on Niagara Square
City Hall on Niagara Square

I headed down Court Street toward City Hall on Niagara Square. Yes, that’s the McKinley Monument in front of the City Hall.

Bas RElief building

There is always something to see in Buffalo. I was fascinated by this rather Egyptian-motif building.

Close up
Close up
City Hall
City Hall

City Hall is an Art Deco gem. They started building it in 1929 and it was open for business in 1931 at a cost of about $7 million dollars.

Top of City Hall

The colorful terra cotta tiles are quite distinctive.

Statues of Buffalo’s favorite sons are on either corner.

Millard Fillmore
Millard Fillmore
Grover Cleveland
Grover Cleveland

While I was snapping photos outside, I chatted a bit with a local worker. He encouraged me to go inside an at least check out the lobby – maybe even go up to the observation deck. I thought I might as well. After all, I was in the area and it was FREE.

Wow! Was I glad I did! There were two large murals in the lobby. This one celebrated Buffalo as having benefited from the coming together of agriculture and the railroads. If it had been done about a hundred years earlier, the rail roads would have been replaced with the canals.

Talents diversified find vent in myriad forms
Talents diversified find vent in myriad forms

Opposite that mural was one celebrating the Buffalo’s special position between  Canada and the United States.

Frontiers unfettered by any frowning fortress
Frontiers unfettered by any frowning fortress

As they say in real estate, “Location, location, location.”

It was only 4:45, and the observation deck was still open and there was a sign, “Elevator to observation deck.” I went up.

They lied.
They lied.

The elevator went to the 25th floor and then I had to walk.

I have arrived.
I have arrived.

I took a turn around the observation deck.

Roof tops
Roof tops
Top of the Liberty Bank building
Top of the Liberty Bank building

Interestingly enough, the Liberty Bank used to be named the German American Bank.  World War I caused them to change the name to eliminate the connection with the enemy.

Peace Bridge connecting the United States with Canada since 1927
Peace Bridge connecting the United States with Canada since 1927
Terra cotta tiles at the top
Terra cotta tiles at the top
Terra cotta on the observation deck railing
Terra cotta on the observation deck railing

After a turn around the observation deck, I headed back down to the lobby.

It is a dazzling building, and there is so much to see. There are treasures all over.

Ornamental iron work
Ornamental iron work
Decoration over an entrance
Decoration over an entrance
Statler Hilton
Statler Hilton

This is the view of the Statler Towers from near where Grover Cleveland’s statue is. Perhaps they thought it would be indelicate to have the statue of Millard Fillmore facing what had been the site of his mansion.

Millard Fillmore Mansion
Millard Fillmore Mansion

Before it became the Statler, it was the Castle Inn.

Castle Inn former site of Millard Fillmore's home
Castle Inn former site of Millard Fillmore’s home

Ellsworth Statler built his hotel right on Niagara Square, and it opened in 1923. To insure its success, he bought the other “fancy” hotel in town, the Iroquois Hotel, and closed it down the day the Statler opened. The Statler Hilton closed as a hotel in 1982, although the last I heard was that it was being renovated to serve as a hotel once more.

Back to City Hall
Back to City Hall

The photo shoots are in full swing.

Bride and groom number one
Bride and groom number one

And then there are the others who are waiting, not to mention the limo drivers.

Weddings galore
Weddings galore

So, I headed toward Canalside to pick up  my car.

St. Joseph's Cathedral
St. Joseph’s Cathedral

Hmm. I wonder if it’s open. I’d like to take a look.

Inside St. Joseph's Cathedral - another wedding
Inside St. Joseph’s Cathedral – another wedding

My goodness! It certainly must be wedding season. It was a beautiful day for it.

Under The Skyway
Under The Skyway

I worked my way back over to where I had left Bart. I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the Skyway.

When I was very young, we had taken a ride out to the “country”. I don’t recall what we were doing, but I do remember that we were driving across a field, and somehow the wheel fell off. Dad managed to get it back on – probably using barbed wire from a fence or something. Coming home, we crossed the Skyway. Just to try to ease the tension and make conversation, I remember saying, “I wonder why they make these bridges so high?”

My mother replied, “Uff da! Shut up!”

I’ve always had a special connection with the Skyway.

 

 

Everything Changes a Little, and It Should

The good ain’t forever and bad ain’t for good.

According to Roger Miller, at least.

When I get back to the Buffalo area, I always have to drive around and see the old stomping grounds. First, Tonawanda.

Where Kennedy was shot

This corner is one I’d been meaning to visit for several years. This is the spot where I learned that President Kennedy had been shot. They always say you remember where you were when you learned Kennedy was shot.  Older folks remember where they were when Pearl Harbor was bombed and younger people remember where they  were when the World Trade Center was attacked.

The world changed for me that day.

When President Kennedy was shot, I was in third grade in Mrs. Brickell’s class and I was walking home from school. They hadn’t told us at school, but they had told the “big kids” who took the bus over to Alexander Hamilton Elementary. They were talking about the assassination when they got off the bus. When I heard the news, I ran all the way home.

Back in the day
Back in the day

The house has changed hands a few times since we moved out in 1964. I don’t know how, but somehow it shrunk in the past 51 years.

The old homestead today
The old homestead today

Next stop: Kenmore

Another house changing hands
Another house changing hands

I decided I wanted to take a photo of the old family home while I was in town. I had heard that it had gone on the market and had sold quickly. Oddly enough, the woman who bought the house from my parents, Judith, was just coming out the front door as I stepped out of the truck with my camera. Since I was standing in from t of her house with a camera in my hand, I had little choice but to introduce myself. We chatted for a few minutes. She told me that she had a meeting  she had to get to, but invited me to look around and in the garage, too. And so I did!

Judith repaved the apron in the alley!
Judith repaved the apron in the alley!  That’s a good looking change.

But inside the garage, things haven’t changed much.

The shelf is still there
The shelf is still there

In fact, the shelf Dad made from the sign from his steam cleaning business is still there. But, if you want to see it, you have to know where to look. The sign is on the bottom of the shelf!

On the street where I lived
On the street where I lived

Here is another street sign that has to do with a presidential assassination.

President McKinley was shot in Buffalo at the Pan American Exposition in 1901.  I always wondered where in the city it happened.

The Fountain of Abundance in front of the Temple of Music at the Pan American Exposition
The Fountain of Abundance in front of the Temple of Music at the Pan American Exposition

I knew it was outside the Temple of Music, but the Exposition was torn down after the it was over. I could never believe that they would put up such grand buildings for such a short period of time. But they were torn down and houses were built in its place.

This trip, I found where it the building was.

McKinley Assasination Market

This marker is on Fordham Drive in Buffalo at the approximate location of the assassination. I found it with a wonderful new app I downloaded. It’s HISTORY Here, created by the HISTORY channel. I highly recommend it for finding unexpected things on your travels – or even in your community. Look in your App Store. It was FREE! (Probably one of my favorite words of all time.)

The Wilcox Mansion
The Wilcox Mansion

This is the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site, where he was sworn in after McKinley died. McKinley was shot on September 6, 1901, and died on September 13 from gangrene caused by his wounds. Roosevelt was inaugurated the next day at the Wilcox Mansion on Delaware Avenue.

Interestingly enough, there is a direct relationship between the garage on McKinley to Wilcox Mansion. My brother’s wedding reception was held there. As we prepared to leave the house, my father went back to the garage to get a golf umbrella, as rain was threatening. He got stung by a bee when he was back there.  By the time we got to the church, he was having a reaction to the bee sting. He had his brother take him to the hospital and he missed the wedding. But, he made it to the reception later.

Just a mile or so down the street from the Wilcox Mansion,  in downtown Buffalo, is McKinley Monument.

McKinley Monument
McKinley Monument

More about downtown in my next installment.