Last Call for Buffalo!

My thanks to all of you who have been following along with me. I spent three weeks in Western New York, and I have a bunch of little bits and pieces that I wanted to include in the Official Record, but never quite got them fit in. So here it is:

LAST CALL FOR BUFFALO!

Buffalo all america city sign

Buffalo is a great place to eat!

There’s Andersons:

My nieces and my sister out for treats
My nieces and my sister out for treats

Of course, there are many great places for beef on weck.

Vizzi's on Kenmore Avenue
Vizzi’s on Kenmore Avenue
A sandwich as big as your head!
A sandwich as big as your head!

There was so much meat on this sandwich that I took some off and asked for a to-go box. I took home enough for two more sandwiches!

Just in case you don’t know what “weck” is, allow me to explain. It is a German style hard roll with rock salt and caraway seeds baked on top. In German, kummel means caraway and weck means roll. So a beef on weck is a thinly sliced roast beef sandwich on kummelweck.

Vizzi's A frame sign

Best of WNY 2010.  Have they been resting on their laurels?

The other great bar food mainstay is Buffalo style chicken wings. I didn’t get around to the Anchor Bar this trip. If you are going to have chicken wings in Buffalo, you might as well go to the place that started the whole thing off. But, no wings for me this time around.

Bocce Club Pizza

Bocce’s Pizza. It’s always been a family favorite. And, it was voted one of the top 33 pizzerias in America. You can read it right on the box.

Bocce Club boxes

And then there’s Ted’s. High school chum Susan suggested Ted’s when we were trying to decide on a place to go for dinner. I never really cared for Ted’s, so we picked another place. But, I got to thinking about it. I was out and I was hungry and I said, “Why not?”

Ted's Hot Dog stand

Ted's hot dog on the charcoal

They grill the dogs right over the charcoal. I could never understand why people in Kalamazoo got so worked up about The Root Beer Stand and their boiled hot dogs.

Ted's Hot dogs

Pretty good presentation. I liked the tray liner that looks like glowing charcoal. Unfortunately, I guess I really don’t care for Ted’s all that much.

But I did like the meal I had with Susan and Kay at Crav on Hertle. I had Handkerchief Pasta. I was intrigued by the name.

Handkerchief pasta

Me and Susan
Me and Susan
Susan and Kay
Susan and Kay

Unfortunately, my flash didn’t go off.

Wegmans!
Wegmans!

And, if you can’t find a restaurant you like, you can always buy great food at Wegmans and cook it yourself. (I’ve been told that some people do cook.)

When I am in Buffalo, I always have to at least go by the Darwin Martin House. It is one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s masterpieces finished in 1905

Darwin martin House

They have done an absolutely fantastic job of renovating it. In fact, they tore down buildings and recreated parts of the estate that had been demolished to make way for apartment buildings. It’s difficult to tell the old sections from the new.

Gardener's Cottage
Gardener’s Cottage at the Martin Complex

Living in a house like that would make being someone’s gardener a pleasure!

My first visit to the house was back in the 70’s, before it was renovated. In fact, it was in desperate condition. I take special joy in going by and seeing how beautiful it looks.

Since I was in the neighborhood, I decided to take a trip through Forest Lawn Cemetery.  The first statue that greets you as you enter is Red Jacket.

Red jacket Monument
Red jacket Monument

I have been doing a bit of reading to try refresh my memory regarding Red Jacket. What I am sure of is that he was a powerful Seneca orator and negotiated on behalf of the Wolf Clan with the new United States. He died in 1830 and was buried near a church in South Buffalo. His remains and those of some of his compatriots were reinterred here and this monument was erected in 1890.

Millard Fillmore Momument
Millard Fillmore Momument
Millard Fillmore's grave
Millard Fillmore’s grave

More Millard than you can shake a stick at! I did a bit of research on him, and I think this understated marker is completely as he would have had it.

Nerd Alert! Skip down to the next photo if you don’t want to read about our 13th president.

In an earlier post I mentioned that he had been apprenticed to a cloth maker. He managed to buy out out his apprenticeship and got some schooling. He married his teacher, read the law and established himself as a lawyer in East Aurora. He was self-taught, in large degree. He served three terms in Congress and had hoped to run as Vice President with Henry Clay. Thurlow Weed, head of the NYS Whig party “convinced” him to run for governor, but he lost.

At the Whig convention in 1848, General Taylor, an under-educated slave owner from Louisiana, was their choice for President on the ticket. To appease the faction in the party that disapproved of Taylor, Fillmore, a man opposed to slavery but promoting compromise as the solution, was included on the ticket.

He was elected as Taylor’s Vice President, but they got on so poorly that he was all but excluded from participating in government. Taylor came down with cholera that he caught at a Fourth of July celebration in 1850 and died shortly after that. Fillmore became president. He supported the Compromise of 1850, which was an attempt to resolve the issue of slavery. It didn’t succeed. He didn’t run for a term after completing Taylor’s term. It sounds like he was just disillusioned with politics.

His wife died shortly after he left Washington. He took an extended tour of Europe, and when Oxford heard he was in the neighborhood, they wanted to award him an honorary degree. He declined the offer, saying that he was uneducated and that since the degree would be written in Latin, he wouldn’t be able to read it.

Which brings me back to his grave marker. It is in keeping with his humble nature.

If you want to know more about Millard, I suggest you check out the information about him at The Miller Center.

*Whew!* Back to our normally scheduled content.

Chapin Parkway looking toward Gates Circle
Chapin Parkway looking toward Gates Circle

Frederick Law Olmstead laid out Buffalo’s beautiful system of parks and parkways. The parkways were lined with towering elms. Due to the Dutch Elm Disease of the 1960s and 1970s, the parkways were left bare. I was thrilled to see how the replacements have grown and filled the spaces left behind by the elms.

Oh, and see that building at the end of the street? That was Millard Fillmore Hospital.

Coming down!
Coming down!

I hear that this plot of land is going to be redeveloped as a multi-use building – apartments, condos and retail. It’ll be interesting to see what is in its place next time I am in town.

It was a great treat to be able to spend time with family and friends. I got to help out Amy and Steve with driving Katie to practice. Her team won!

Katie after the field hockey game
Katie after the field hockey game
Sarah working on her AP coursework
Sarah working on her AP coursework

Two lovely young ladies!

And, with that, I hitched up and headed out of town.

Bye Bye Buffalo!
Bye Bye Buffalo!

 

 

 

 

When You’re Alone and Life Is Making You Lonely…

You can always go

DOWNTOWN!

I wasn’t alone or lonely, but I do like going downtown. And, this trip had a special  purpose. I was going to meet up with a college chum and we were going to see SHARK GIRL!

Shark girl!

Why a girl with a shark head? Why not?!

It was as good a place as any to meet up with Sue. I’m sure I hadn’t seen her in at least 30 years – probably more. I saw on Facebook that she was in Buffalo staying at a hotel nearby, so we met up there. I needn’t have worried that I wouldn’t recognize her. She’s barely changed at all!

We caught up on where life had taken us – well, at least some of the high points. While we chatted, we strolled about Canalside, Buffalo’s latest amazing development. They have taken an area that was rather utilitarian – or maybe post-utilitarian – and turned it into a place people want to be.

Paddle boats in the canal
Paddle boats in the canal

This part of the city is the very end of the Erie Canal. A couple of years ago, my friend Kathy, who you may remember from earlier posts, took me over to a part of this development that is the official end of the canal. If I remember correctly, that is. I didn’t get that far this trip. I’ll have to make sure I check it out the next time I am in town.

The canal in this photo has paddle boats for rent, and in the winter, they have skating on it. There are all sorts of attractive seating and things to do all around it.

Building blocks
Building blocks

I am not sure who were having more fun – the adults or the kids.

Miles Gilbert "Tim" Horton
Miles Gilbert “Tim” Horton

A statue commemorating Tim Horton, who played with the Buffalo Sabres from 1972 until his untimely death in 1974. Sue only knew him the name of the donut and coffee shop, which he had founded in 1964 in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. The first US shop was opened in 1985 in Amherst, NY. Now they are all over the place, although they’re not everywhere – at least not yet.

Sue and I parted ways, and I decided to take the Metro. Sue told me that the above ground portion was free. Since I had never ridden it, and it was FREE, why not?

Light rail metro downtown

The Metro Rail service started in 1985, after about six years of construction. It is about six and a half miles long and was originally intended to be the basis of a region-wide light rail transit system. But, funding dried up and Buffalo’s population dropped from around 550,000 in the 1950’s to around 260,000 in 2010. It will be interesting to see what the future holds in store for Buffalo. The downtown certainly has changed since I was a kid, but some things are still here that I remember.

I hopped off the Metro at Lafayette Square.

Soldier and Sailors Monument in Lafayette Square
Soldier and Sailors Monument in Lafayette Square

This monument was in honor of the military who fought to preserve the Union in the Civil War. It was dedicated in 1884 by then Governor Grover Cleveland. Across the square is the Hotel Lafayette.

Hotel Lafayette
Hotel Lafayette

The 1904 building was designed by Buffalo architect Louise Bethune, the nation’s first female professional architect. It was a grand building when it opened,  but suffered when the downtown went into decline. It has been gloriously restored and is absolutely lovely. I was getting hungry and decided to give one of their restaurants a visit.

I selected the Pan American Grill and Brewery. It is decked out in the finest turn of the century decor, with heavy wood carvings and decorations from the Pan American Exposition.

Restaurant Woodwork
Restaurant Woodwork

The Pan[American Exposition Logo
The Pan-American Exposition Logo
I chose the Flatbread Caprese and a seat by the window, so that I could watch all the comings and goings.

Flatbread Caprese
Flatbread Caprese

Apparently, this is quite the location for weddings. Two separate bridal entourages came and went while I was watching. They were heading out with photographers for their portraits.

Ready for a wedding
Ready for a wedding

After lunch, I went back into Lafayette Square to investigate something I noticed.

Buffalo Connect
Buffalo Connect

They have free WiFi in the downtown and Canalside areas! Way to go, Buffalo!

City Hall on Niagara Square
City Hall on Niagara Square

I headed down Court Street toward City Hall on Niagara Square. Yes, that’s the McKinley Monument in front of the City Hall.

Bas RElief building

There is always something to see in Buffalo. I was fascinated by this rather Egyptian-motif building.

Close up
Close up
City Hall
City Hall

City Hall is an Art Deco gem. They started building it in 1929 and it was open for business in 1931 at a cost of about $7 million dollars.

Top of City Hall

The colorful terra cotta tiles are quite distinctive.

Statues of Buffalo’s favorite sons are on either corner.

Millard Fillmore
Millard Fillmore
Grover Cleveland
Grover Cleveland

While I was snapping photos outside, I chatted a bit with a local worker. He encouraged me to go inside an at least check out the lobby – maybe even go up to the observation deck. I thought I might as well. After all, I was in the area and it was FREE.

Wow! Was I glad I did! There were two large murals in the lobby. This one celebrated Buffalo as having benefited from the coming together of agriculture and the railroads. If it had been done about a hundred years earlier, the rail roads would have been replaced with the canals.

Talents diversified find vent in myriad forms
Talents diversified find vent in myriad forms

Opposite that mural was one celebrating the Buffalo’s special position between  Canada and the United States.

Frontiers unfettered by any frowning fortress
Frontiers unfettered by any frowning fortress

As they say in real estate, “Location, location, location.”

It was only 4:45, and the observation deck was still open and there was a sign, “Elevator to observation deck.” I went up.

They lied.
They lied.

The elevator went to the 25th floor and then I had to walk.

I have arrived.
I have arrived.

I took a turn around the observation deck.

Roof tops
Roof tops
Top of the Liberty Bank building
Top of the Liberty Bank building

Interestingly enough, the Liberty Bank used to be named the German American Bank.  World War I caused them to change the name to eliminate the connection with the enemy.

Peace Bridge connecting the United States with Canada since 1927
Peace Bridge connecting the United States with Canada since 1927
Terra cotta tiles at the top
Terra cotta tiles at the top
Terra cotta on the observation deck railing
Terra cotta on the observation deck railing

After a turn around the observation deck, I headed back down to the lobby.

It is a dazzling building, and there is so much to see. There are treasures all over.

Ornamental iron work
Ornamental iron work
Decoration over an entrance
Decoration over an entrance
Statler Hilton
Statler Hilton

This is the view of the Statler Towers from near where Grover Cleveland’s statue is. Perhaps they thought it would be indelicate to have the statue of Millard Fillmore facing what had been the site of his mansion.

Millard Fillmore Mansion
Millard Fillmore Mansion

Before it became the Statler, it was the Castle Inn.

Castle Inn former site of Millard Fillmore's home
Castle Inn former site of Millard Fillmore’s home

Ellsworth Statler built his hotel right on Niagara Square, and it opened in 1923. To insure its success, he bought the other “fancy” hotel in town, the Iroquois Hotel, and closed it down the day the Statler opened. The Statler Hilton closed as a hotel in 1982, although the last I heard was that it was being renovated to serve as a hotel once more.

Back to City Hall
Back to City Hall

The photo shoots are in full swing.

Bride and groom number one
Bride and groom number one

And then there are the others who are waiting, not to mention the limo drivers.

Weddings galore
Weddings galore

So, I headed toward Canalside to pick up  my car.

St. Joseph's Cathedral
St. Joseph’s Cathedral

Hmm. I wonder if it’s open. I’d like to take a look.

Inside St. Joseph's Cathedral - another wedding
Inside St. Joseph’s Cathedral – another wedding

My goodness! It certainly must be wedding season. It was a beautiful day for it.

Under The Skyway
Under The Skyway

I worked my way back over to where I had left Bart. I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the Skyway.

When I was very young, we had taken a ride out to the “country”. I don’t recall what we were doing, but I do remember that we were driving across a field, and somehow the wheel fell off. Dad managed to get it back on – probably using barbed wire from a fence or something. Coming home, we crossed the Skyway. Just to try to ease the tension and make conversation, I remember saying, “I wonder why they make these bridges so high?”

My mother replied, “Uff da! Shut up!”

I’ve always had a special connection with the Skyway.