Palo Duro Canyon State Park, near Amarillo, has several campgrounds. I was tempted to camp there. For one thing, I generally prefer staying in public facilities. It has been my experience that they are usually not as crowded. They are usually cheaper, too.
BUT the campgrounds in this park are at the bottom of the deepest canyon in Texas. To get to the campgrounds, you have to descend a 10% grade, switchbacking down the side of the canyon. Also, I heard that the campgrounds were muddy, which makes sense since they had had a bit of rain lately – and they were at the bottom of the canyon. Water does flow downhill, after all. Also, if you descend a 10% grade switchbacking down the side of the canyon, you have to ascend a 10% grade switchbacking up the side of the canyon to get out.
I opted for the Palo Duro RV Park in Canyon, Texas, just ten miles from the park. It was only $25 and had a wonderful view of the interstate.
That sign seems to be following me!
After my day of exploring the Alibates Quarries National Monument and the Cadillac Ranch, I just got settled in and prepared for the next day, when I would visit Palo Duro Canyon State Park.
The next day, I headed over to the park. I was happy to be able to make use of the Texas State Parks Pass that I had bought in February. I stopped off at the visitor center. They had an interesting display about the construction of the park, which was done by the CCC during the Great Depression. I had already stayed at one the Texas State Parks built by them, Balmorhea State Park, on my way west a few months ago. I have got to say that I am extremely in awe of the CCC. Not only did they build some wonderful parks, but the work they did and they pay they received was the salvation of many families during those dark days.
If I remember the numbers correctly, the men working in the CCC received $30 a month plus room and board. They got to keep $5 for themselves and the rest was sent back to their families.
Here’s a photo from the exhibit of them building the road down to the bottom of the canyon. They used dynamite, but, for the most part, it was just plain old hard work with picks and shovels.
The visitor center is one of the buildings that the CCC built. It was originally the Coronado Lodge. Given the name, I assumed it must have been hotel, but there was no information that I saw describing how it was used oringially. It seemed like a rather small building to be a hotel. However, it was solidly built and is still in use.
There was a great view from the parking area.
When I arrived, the trails were closed due to the rain that they had received.
By the time I got to the floor of the canyon, they had determined that the trails had dried out enough for them to allow people back on them.
My first stop was not a trail; it was the ticket office of TEXAS. While I was parked at the Visitor Center and before I lost my cell phone connection, I called and ordered tickets for the show and for dinner beforehand. I stopped to pick up the tickets, but “will call” wasn’t open until 6:00. The woman I spoke with was very excited. This was opening night for the 51st season of the open air musical about the history of the Texas panhandle. On my way back to the truck, I stopped off to visit with some of the performers.
I resisted the temptation to tell him to “break a leg”. That seemed like a bad thing to say to a horse.
I set out to explore. I drove through some of the campgrounds. They were in good condition, and they would have been fine to camp at – if only there wasn’t that 10% grade with switchbacks to negotiate.
I ended up at the Lighthouse trailhead parking lot. It seemed as good as any, and there was ample parking.
This was the goal of the hike. I didn’t make it all the way. I borrowed the photo from the Texas State Parks website. When you enter the trail, they provide a brochure with the signs of heatstroke and dehydration. It was hot, but I did have water, so I figured that I would give it a shot.
Some of the trails were kind of small footpaths. They seemed interesting, but I figured that they weren’t heading toward The Lighthouse.
This one seemed more likely. It had definitely seen more traffic.
I tend to walk like a beachcomber. I walk a bit and then I stop and look at things. I bought one of those fitness trackers, and I continually get reports that my longest active time for a day was two minutes. That’s okay with me. I am walking to look at things, not just count steps.
Anyway, I was interested in the white layers that were exposed. I walked over to inspect them more closely.
They were very interesting! I found out later that the white layers are gypsum. I took a couple pieces with me so I could identify them. Since they were covered with the red soil, I soaked them in water. The water made them really easy to break apart. Remember the Mohs scale from my last post? Well, the only mineral on the scale softer than gypsum is talc!
I walked on a bit until I came to a spot the trail guide told me was a place to view a hoodoo that looked like an Indian standing guard.
The taller formation is Capitol Peak. It was named for its resemblance to the Capitol Building in Washington D.C. There was a shelter at that spot, and I stopped and enjoyed the shade while I drank my water. I drank all the water I brought with me. I had more than half a gallon in my back pack! I figured that I had walked far enough if I felt the need to drink all my water by that point, so I headed back to the trailhead.
The formation across the valley is known as “Spanish Skirts”. At least, I think that’s what I was taking a picture of.
There were lots of lovely layered rock formations. The colors don’t show up as vividly in the photos, but they were quite amazing.
Speaking of amazing, I thought this flood gauge was worthy of a little examination. If you could see that the depth of water was three feet, you might be less inclined to try to go through. As they say out west, “Turn around. Don’t drown.”
What size stream could flood that high?
It doesn’t look like much, does it? But, when you consider the size of the area that drains into the creek, I guess it makes sense that the water level could rise dramatically – and suddenly.
Looking into the mud on the banks of the creek, I could see what looks like raccoon paw prints.
I still had a little time to go before I could pick up the tickets for dinner and the show. I decided to stop off at the trading post for something to drink. I couldn’t help but notice these candies.
The bag is printed with the price, “2 for $1.59 or 89¢ each”. If you look careful at the orange sticker, it reads $1.29. I guess it’s all about supply and demand. As far as I was concerned, at that price I had no demand.
After nursing my diet Coke and enjoying the air conditioning for a while, it was finally time to go pick up my tickets.
It was time for TEXAS!
While I was eating, I got to watch the excitement of performers on opening night. The young man in the white shirt came out to say hello to his parents. You could feel the happy, nervous energy he was exuding, and his parents were so proud of him.
After dinner I went to the entrance to the amphitheater to wait for them to open the gates. While I was there, I got to talking with a gentleman who had on the most gorgeous turquoise bolo tie. He told me that it had been his father’s and that he liked to collect Navajo jewelry. He showed me the bracelet he had on and said that he had just gotten a new one, but it was too big to wear with his dress shirt. Before he retired, he had been the director of history at the Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum.
You just never know who you are going to run into!
They opened the gates, and we went to take our seats. I ended up sitting next to the Cabbages of Hutchinson, Kansas. We got to talking about the PPHM (Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum) and they enthusiastically recommended it to me. I told them that I would give it a visit while I was in town.
While waiting for the show to start, I examined the stage. It looked like there would be some interesting scenery and set changes.
The backdrop was the wall of the canyon.
I just couldn’t wait to see how all those doors would come into play!
Unfortunately, I have no shots of the performance to share, as it was prohibited. But, you know how they say everything is bigger in Texas? I think that applies to musicals, as well. They have cast of 60 singers and dancers, at least six horses and a mule. There were three wagons, I think, a train, a cabin and a real, burning campfire that they moved out onto the stage. Oh, and the show ended with the Dancing Waters of TEXAS and fireworks.
TEXAS!
After the show, you know that 10% grade with switchbacks? Yep, time to reverse the process, this time in the dark.
Since I am reporting this to you, you know I made it out.
