The Other Side of Zion

As I was saying, there are two sides to Zion: the drive-through side and the shuttle bus side. Today it was time for the shuttle bus side. My plan was to do the Riverside Walk.

I parked at the first lot I saw in Springdale, the town just outside the park. The bus came along just after I got out of the truck, and I was at Zion in no time at all. I walked through the gate, brandished my America the Beautiful pass (along with my drivers license, so they would know it was me) and headed to the park shuttle.

Along the way 1

The views along the way were spectacular.

Along the way 2

After a short ride, I arrived at the last stop, Temple of Sinawava. According to my research – and the recording that played on the ride up – Sinawava is the Paiute’s coyote spirit or god. The Temple of Sinawava is an amphitheater. Judging by what I have seen here as well as in other places, an amphitheater is a canyon that has widened out to a bowl shape.

I took advantage of the restrooms – on of the first things I learned on my full time travel is that one should never pass up the opportunity to use the restroom. Then I headed over to the trail.

Riverside walk sign

Unfortunately, I would have to satisfy myself with the Riverside Walk, and skip hiking through the icy cold water of the North Fork of the Virgin River. The Narrows was closed.

Narrows closed sign

The water was rushing along at a good pace. Closing the Narrows seemed wise. At some points, the river takes up the whole canyon, so you are basically wading or swimming as you go. At the narrowest points, according to the literature, the canyon is 20-30 feet wide. That would be a fearsome place to get caught during a flash flood!

There are a number of different habitats along the river. I was surprised to find a swamp.

Swamp

The information I read spoke of “hanging gardens”.

hanging gardens

I think these must be some of them, however I would probably just call them “plants growing in cracks in the rocks.”

Speaking of cracks in the rocks, I guess there is always danger of falling rocks when you are dealing with a cliff.

Look out for falling rocks 1

Look out below!

Look out for falling rocks 2

It looks like those rocks came from up there.

I did some research, and the mighty elk is Utah’s state animal. However, after my hike, I think that they should consider transferring that honor to the squirrel.

squirrel

In spite of hefty fines for feeding the wildlife, the squirrels must have had enough success with begging that they have no fear of people. All along the trail, people stopped to take pictures of them. They were quite engaging.

Flowers growing the the rocks

There is so much to look at. I enjoyed the various plants. It’s springtime, and many of them are in bloom.

Straight canyone walls

As I continued down the Walk, I noticed that the sides of the canyon seemed to be getting taller and more vertical.

icy conditions

Of course, “Safety first” is the motto – but I don’t thing there was much chance of icy conditions on the day I visited. It was very pleasant. Nonetheless, I did keep an eye out for the ice.

Blind arch

Ice is an important player in shaping the rocks. Here we have what Matthew told me was a blind arch. You can see the arch shape forming in the side of the canyon as the rocks break away due to the freeze/thaw cycle. If this happened in a narrow enough rock, you would eventually get an arch that went all the way through. In this case, I think what would happen is that the narrow canyon would widen into an amphitheater. I’m not a geologist, but I have my opinions!

Volcanic looking rocks

In my strictly non-professional opinion, I thought that these rocks looked almost volcanic. If so, I wonder how they got there?

down the canyon

The canyon got narrower and narrower the closer I got to the end of the Riverside Walk.

cobbles in the river

Looking down into the river, I saw the cobbles that gouged out the canyon when carried by the force of the water.

sandstone

They say that you can hear the cobbles grinding against the rocks when the current is strong enough. That would be something I’d love to hear.

Throwing rocks

I came across this youngster throwing rocks in the river. He looked like he was having such a good time. It was fun watching him. And I really appreciated his parents for giving him the time and space to have this experience. I didn’t see any signs prohibiting that activity. Maybe I missed them. Or maybe they count on people to use their common sense.

Reloading

I enjoyed watching him pick out the rocks he’d throw. His parents told him that he could throw one more. He picked up a largish one and dumped in the water with a big splash. Then he rejoined his parents and the continued on the walk.

me at the end of the trail

And here I am, at the end of the walk and the beginning of the Narrows. Too bad the water levels were so high. I am sure I would have done that trail, too. (NOT.)virgin river with trees

And so it was back along the river.

Rapids in the river

Watching the power of the water.

driftwood

Looking at the driftwood that had been carried in the floods – how long ago?

Riverwalk trail

Back to the Temple of Sinawava, where I’d catch the shuttle back to the park entrance.

One more visit to the restroom, though. They encourage drinking lots of water and they even provide stations for refilling your water bottle. The Zion Spring Water tasted good!

water station

I just had to follow the arrow to see what the Foot Wash Station looked like. I had seen “fuss bads” in Germany the summer I worked in a Girl Scout camp over there in 1976. (Forty years ago?!)

footbath

And this is what it was. Not that I needed to wash my feet after my rather leisurely stroll along the North Fork of the Virgin River. But I was ready to head back to camp.

New State, New Friend

Hello, Utah!

Utah added to the mapFinally! A new state to add to the map. My last new state was Florida, and that was some time ago.

Using a website, Campendium.com, I found some free camping in the Dixie National Forest, just a mile or so off I-15. Do I love the word, FREE? Yes, I do! There are no facilities, but I have my own water and toilet, and I make electricity with my solar panels. Who needs a campground?

My campsite in Leeds

You couldn’t pay for a view like this, either.

View from my campsite

Yep, that’s snow up there. I was warm enough where I was, though.

When you camp in a national forest without facilities, they call it “dispersed camping”. This area was different in that they had assigned places where you could set up camp. I grabbed the first one I came to. It looked good and there was room to maneuver. I am glad that I parked over to the side of my site, because there was at least one site behind mine.

campsite behind mine Dixie National Forest

I don’t think it would have been possible to have gotten a trailer up the road, but these folks did fine in their car.

On the cliff behind my site, there were some people practicing repelling. It was fun to watch.

Repelling the cliff

That is one activity that is definitely NOT on my “to-do” list!

The day after I got settled in at my campsite, I met up with a Facebook Friend.

facebook 2

I met Matthew through Airstream groups on Facebook. When he heard I was going to be in the area, he insisted on showing me around. Or, maybe I imposed and he was too much of a gentleman to refuse.

In any event, he spent a day running me around the area. What a great guy!

Matt with the Ponderosa Pine

Here he is, holding up a ponderosa pine in Zion National Park. Saint Matthew of the Tundra, I dubbed him.

Even after enjoying the magnificent view from my campsite, I think I must have said “Wow!” at least a hundred times.

View 1 A

Wow!

More layers

Wow!

wow shot

WOW!

At every turn, there was always something amazing.

In Zion National Park, there are two sides. One side you can drive through and one side where you park and take a shuttle to visit various spots in the canyon. Matthew drove me through the side with the tunnels.

Now, I have been through tunnels in mountains before, but these tunnels are really masterpieces of engineering. I have no photos to share with you, and I know it’s become an accepted truth that if there are no photos, it didn’t happen. Take my word. This tunnel is a marvel.

By George A. Grant, Photographer (NARA record: 1226390) - U.S. National Archives and Records Administration, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17034363
By George A. Grant, Photographer (NARA record: 1226390) – U.S. National Archives and Records Administration, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17034363

The tunnel was part of a 25 mile long road built to connect Zion with Grand Canyon National Park, Bryce Canyon, Cedar Breaks and the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. Work began in 1927 and was completed in 1930.

The tunnel itself is 5,613 feet long and follows the profile of Pine Creek Canyon at a consistent distance of 21 feel from the outside face of the rock to the center of the tunnel. the tunnel was built using mining technology. There are galleries that provide light and ventilation to the tunnel. As you are approaching the entrance, you can see the openings punctuating the canyon wall.

As proof that I actually went through the tunnel, we stopped to take a photo at the east entrance to the park.

Me at entrance to Zion

Ah, but before we exited the park, we stopped and saw a few things.

Checkerboard

This is the Checkerboard. With the vertical grooves and the horizontal layers of rock, it’s not to hard to see a checkerboard.

We also saw some big horn sheep scampering around on the rocks, but you’ll have to take my word for that, too. No photos.

Ah, but I do have photos of petroglyphs! We parked at a pull-out and then walked down an unmarked path. Matthew said that only locals know about it, and they don’t give information out about where they are. The NPS folks just shrug their shoulders when asked. “Petroglyphs? What Petroglyphs?”

Pictograph 1

I promised not to tell anyone where they are.

Pictograph 2

That’s easy.

Pictograph 3

Do you think I remember where they are?

pictograph 4

No, I don’t.

Best friends 2

We also made a stop at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in Kanab, Utah. My photo didn’t turn out, so, here’s one from another blog. They took the tour, so if you are interested in animal rescue, click on the link. The people there were lovely and caring. What a beautiful spot for an organization like this.

Then next stop on our tour was Pipe Spring National Monument. Another stamp in my National Parks Passport!

Pipe Spring was an oasis in the arid region.  It’s located in the Arizona Strip, the northern part of Arizona separated from the rest of the state by the Grand Canyon.

The Kaibab Paiute lived there and used the water. They lived lightly on the land, building wikiups out of the local plants. They were hunter/gatherers and, if I understand correctly, would move about as the seasons dictated. The water flowing out of the spring must have made this a favored stopping spot.

Beginning in the 1850s, the members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints began to settle the area. They thought the water was just great, too. They thought it was so great that they built a fort right on top of it in 1872!

Pipe spring fort

They call this “Winsor Castle”, named after one of the managers of the ranch, Anson Perry Winsor. We weren’t there in time for a tour, but Matthew told me that the women lived in the front part of the fort and the men lived in the back part. I imagine that there is a courtyard or patio in the center, as there are those large doors on both sides.

the door on the other side

I’m a little perplexed by the door on this side, though. There doesn’t seem to be an access road to it. Maybe it was for ventilation?

Pipe Spring National Monument sign with grafitti

 

In 1923, the Pipe Spring ranch was purchased and set aside as a national monument to be memorial of western pioneer life. There is plenty of graffiti, which is now part of the historical record.

Pipe Spring

They have some cattle at the site. Figures I have to go to Arizona to see Texas longhorns.

pipe spring early cabin

There are also a couple of cabins that have been rebuilt, to give a little more information about how the settlers lived.

And that was our last stop on the whirlwind tour. Thanks for a great day, Matthew!