Fun Food and Interesting Places to Eat and Drink: The Michigan Edition

This is by no means an exhaustive list. There are a few foods and places I’d like to share. Feel free to add your own suggestions.

Cops and Doughnuts, Clare, Michigan

When this historic bakery, which had been in operation since 1890, was going to close, the local police force rallied to the cause. They bought the bakery, and it seems to be larger and busier each time I have visited.

The novelty of cops owning a doughnut shop has brought in loads of publicity, and people come from all over. If you are passing through, why not stop? And while you are getting some doughnuts, why not buy a T shirt, mug, frisbee or key chain?

In fact, why not stop and buy something at one of the local stores? This bakery seems to be the anchor of main street and an engine of development. I have visited Clare at least five times, and each time I visit, the town looks more prosperous.

Let’s hear it for the boys in blue!

Cops and Doughnuts, Clare, Michigan
Cops and Doughnuts, Clare, Michigan
The obligatory mug shot
The obligatory mug shot
One for now and one for later
One for now and one for later

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails, Grayling, Michigan

Spike's Keg 'o Nails, Grayling, Michigan
Spike’s Keg ‘o Nails, Grayling, Michigan

The old neon sign is what drew me in. Well, that and the name. It was an atmospheric place – dark pine paneling and wooden booths that were carved with people’s names. Before I could whip out my Swiss Army knife, though, I noticed that there were signs all over that said that carving was prohibited by the health department. Violators would be thrown out and barred for life.

Since I am the law-abiding sort and I was getting hungry, I decided to skip the woodworking and just order dinner. To my everlasting disappointment, I didn’t order the famous SPIKEBURGER that was advertised on the sign. I had a hankering for a patty melt, and so that is what I got. With a side of deep fried macaroni and cheese. It’s a good thing that they had the music turned up, because it was almost drowned out by the sound of my arteries slamming shut. What was I thinking when I ordered that?

I tried to read the history of the place that was printed on the menu, but the restaurant was heavy on the atmosphere and light on the light. I did managed to pick out that Spike opened the bar the day after prohibition ended. It burned down several times, changed locations and owners, but seems to be chugging along just fine.

So, if you decide to have dinner in Grayling, why not head to Spike’s Keg O’ Nails? After all, it is the “Meeting Place of the North” – is says so on the sign. You might want to consider skipping the deep fried macaroni and cheese.

Lock VIEW Restaurant, Sault Sainte Marie, Michigan

Lockview Restaurant Sault Ste. Marie

It has a view of the lock. The view is better than the food.

Palace Restaurant and Saloon, Sault Saint Marie, Michigan

If you are looking for a place to eat that is near the locks, and you don’t need a view, you might just amble down the street a block or two to Palace Restaurant and Saloon.

Palace Restaurant and Saloon, Sault Sainte Marie, MI
Palace Restaurant and Saloon, Sault Sainte Marie, MI

This restaurant is a fixture in the Soo. It opened in 1903 was a hotel and restaurant. As with Spike’s Keg O’ Nails in Grayling, it has changed hands many times. I assume that the Mexican theme came with one of the later changes. My burrito was good, and I’d gladly eat there again.

Palace Restaurant and Saloon interior
Palace Restaurant and Saloon interior

McDonald’s, Sault Sainte Marie, Michigan

I know, not terribly exciting, but in a nod to the tastes of their neighbors to the north, I was pleased to see that they provide vinegar for the french fries.

Vinegar for the french fries at McDonald's, eh?
Vinegar for the french fries at McDonald’s, eh?

The Gay Bar, Gay, Michigan

My friends, Linda and Tim were in the UP when I was, so they came to take me to The Gay Bar.

Tim and Linda at The Gay Bar
Tim and Linda at The Gay Bar

Linda tells me that this is THE most photographed bar sign in the UP. I have no reason to doubt her.

The menu leans strongly toward hot dogs. In fact, I think I counted about 30 different ways you can get your hot dog.

One of the famous foot-longs at The Gay Bar
One of the famous foot-longs at The Gay Bar
The garnish in Linda's Bloody mary
The garnish in Linda’s Bloody Mary

If you like, they have a wide variety of souvenirs you can buy. They will even sell them to you on line, so you don’t even need to go to the UP to buy Gay Bar swag.

The Berry Patch, Paradise, Michigan

Pasty with gravy and applesauce at the Berry Patch in Paradise, MI
Pasty with gravy and applesauce at the Berry Patch in Paradise, MI

If you haven’t had a pasty by the time you get to Tahquamenon Falls, by all means head to the Berry Patch in Paradise, Michigan. I had never had my pasties with gravy. I would recommend spending the extra buck and getting a side of gravy.

Hilltop Restaurant, L’Anse, Michigan

This was another one of Linda and Tim’s suggestions. They said that I must get one of their cinnamon rolls when I came back through. I did. This puppy must have weighted three pounds!

The Famous Cinnamon Roll from the Hilltop Restaurant in L'Anse, Michigan
The Famous Cinnamon Roll from the Hilltop Restaurant in L’Anse, Michigan

I sliced it up and ate it for breakfast for several days.

The cinnamon roll all sliced up
The cinnamon roll all sliced up

Copper Country Strawberries from a Roadside Stand

Copper Country strawberries with Meijer Greek yogurt
Copper Country strawberries with Meijer Greek yogurt

Delicious!

Trenary Toast

Trenary Toast from Trenary, MI
Trenary Toast from Trenary, MI

After seeing the familiar brown bag in several stores, I decided to see just what Trenary Toast was. It is toasted bread that has toppings baked into it. It was an interesting and crunchy little snack.

Serving suggestion
Serving suggestion

Suomi Home Bakery and Restaurant, Houghton, Michigan

Suomi Home Bakery and Restaurant
Suomi Home Bakery and Restaurant
Pannukakku with Nisu Toast
Pannukakku with Nisu Toast

A Finnish restaurant in Houghton, Michigan, one block off the main drag and one block from the water. The food was good, and how often do you have the opportunity to try Finnish food?

I made a return visit because the people working there had such wonderful positive energy – and I liked the food.

Gemignani’s Italian Specialties, Hancock, Michigan

Hancock Restaurant

An Italian restaurant in the Finnish part of town. It’s right across the street from Finlandia, University.

Streeet signs

I wonder what the ratio of K’s is to other letters of the Finnish vocabulary?

Yum!

I love tomato caprese, but I’d never had it baked before. It was delightful, as was the bruschetta. This is definitely a place I would recommend.

And that is the end of my gustatory tour of Michigan. Just wait until I get to the fish boil in Wisconsin!

 

Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Michigan

It was a short two-hour drive from Houghton, Michigan to Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park. When you get to Ontonagon, turn left and drive along Lake Superior.

End of the Earth? Not quite
End of the Earth? Not quite

I checked in at the gate house and found my spot. I got out of the cab to decide how to attack it, and a neighbor, Johnny, came over to help. It was a large site, but rather undulating and the power outlet was on the wrong side. We eventually got it slid into place. I went about dropping the trailer and getting hooked up to the power. Then I discovered that my cord wasn’t long enough to reach. I started getting hitched up again to try to get it closer to the power, when another neighbor, Dale, came over to offer his assistance. What a friendly place!

We finally got it hitched up, scooched over and I plugged the cord in. The power still wasn’t flowing to the trailer. I puzzled that over for a while, and finally figured out that the surge protector must have given its all back at McLain State Park. I disconnected the faulty part and finally every thing was hunky and dory.

Dale introduced  me to his wife, Cheryl and we had a pleasant little chat. They are fellow Michiganders. (Don’t let my Texas plates fool you!)

The next morning, Dale and Cheryl came over to invite me to join them at the Fourth of July Parade in White Pine. I got myself into my most patriotic attire – my red AZO tee shirt, blue jeans and a white elastic hair tie and joined them. They were similarly attired.

Now, I am not a big parade goer. In the 29 years I lived in Kalamazoo, I don’t think I ever went to one of the many parades they had. But, no one ever invited me. I couldn’t turn down this one!

It was small-town fun at its finest.

Parade 1

We took up a position in the shade of a tree and watched the people on the other side of the street waiting for the parade.

Here it comes!
Here it comes!

The honor guard.

left, right
left, right

It seems like the big deal here was the candy. People threw it – mostly at children – from the floats and cars as well as walking along in the parade.

The candy caterpillar
The candy caterpillar

The candy caterpillar wove its way back and forth across the street. Not only did they throw candy, but they gave out bags to collect it in.

The lady and her kid
The lady and her kid

The poor little kid was getting rather tuckered out by the time he got to us. She picked him up and carried him the rest of the way.

Fanciful floats
Fanciful floats

There were fanciful floats. This float looked like it really could float.

Parade 7

The library was represented.

Parade 8

So was the fireworks company. I hear they do a booming business for the fourth. (*groan*)

Parade 9

The military had a presence.

And then came the cars.

Muscles cars
A muscle car
Old-timey truck
Old-timey truck
Flag-festooned car
Flag-festooned car

Another floatParade 14 float

This one had a musician who was giving all  he had to the one note he could play .

Parade 15 trombone

Parade 16

And what would a parade up north be without a snow mobile?

Parade 17 LighthouseOr a lighthouse?

Parade 18 waving ladyEveryone had a good time.

Parade 19 EndAnd then the parade was over until next year.

And even though we were a trio of oldsters with nary a child nearby, they treated us like family.

Our candy haul
Our candy haul

Ah, but Porcupine Mountains isn’t all candy and parades. There is also Lake of the Clouds.

Lake of the Clouds
Lake of the Clouds

You drive up and up and up until you come to a parking lot. They have a boardwalk from the parking lot to several vantage points overlooking the lake.

It is nestled between two ridges of the Porcupine Mountains. I imagine that it is much warmer than Lake Superior. While it is a mile long, it is only 15 feet deep. I satisfied myself with the view from the overlook.

Speaking of views, we had one really spectacular sunset of the three nights I was there.

Sunset

Sunset 2

I just loved how the colors rippled across the water.

Silhouettes at sunset

Everyone enjoyed the sunset, even the kids.

I hear that the brilliant colors we were enjoying were due to the smoke from the Canadian forest fires. There are quite a few this season out west, and the prevailing westerlies and the jet stream are pumping them this way.

I ran into Dale and Cheryl when I went down to the shore to collect some pebbles.

Dale and Cheryl reading at the shore
Dale and Cheryl reading at the shore
Pebbles on the shore
Pebbles on the shore

My father always called me “fiddle fingers” – I was always making something. Here’s some of what I made with the pebbles and a spool of copper wire I saved from the tons of supplies I left behind.

One of the necklaces
One of the necklaces
Pendants and ornaments
Pendants and ornaments

I gave Dale and Cheryl some Christmas tree ornaments as souvenirs of their visit to the Porkies. They invited me for dinner!

They made pork chops, a rice dish and green beans, and we ate in the pop-up trailer. The food was good, the company delightful and the trailer was so cool! I have always wanted a screened porch, and this was a lot like one. If I wasn’t already towing a trailer, I might consider getting one.

Now comes the entomological report.

The flies were horrid for the last 24 hours I was there. These weren’t the black flies that attacked up in Copper Harbor. These looked just like house flies, but they bite! The ranger told me that they are barn flies. You know how mosquitoes will hover about and hesitate, as if looking for the right place and time to set down? These just descend en masse. I stepped out of the trailer and I any bare skin was fair game. There would be five or more right next to each other trying to get some of this prime pale skin. They seemed to prefer legs. Bug repellant did little to nothing to discourage them.

When it was time to hitch up the next day, I covered every inch of skin that I could, jammed Dad’s favorite hat down as far as it would go, sprayed myself down with bug repellant, just in case it would help and worked as fast as I could.

Flies still got inside the cab of the truck and I swatted them all the way to Wisconsin. They were even biting me through my jeans.

Luckily, I seem to have gotten rid of them. On to the next state – the Badger State!

 

 

 

 

 

Ho-Ho-Houghton, Michigan

Thanks to my friend Linda, who joined me for a day before the Copper Harbor adventure, I now know how to pronounce Houghton. It’s not HOW-ton; it’s not WHO-ton; it’s HO-ton. After all those years of teaching from Houghton Mifflin textbooks, I would have thought I’d have mastered it before this.

It snowed HOW much?!
It snowed HOW much?!

Driving back along US 41 from Copper Harbor to Houghton, I passed the snow gauge. The record was 390.4 inches in 1978-1979. That’s more than 32 feet! I guess I will stop feeling sorry for myself for the roughly 12 feet I shoveled during my last winter in Kalamazoo in 2013-2014.

I camped at McLain State Park, just outside Houghton. I had a lovely site right on the shore.

The view from my campsite.
The view from my campsite.
Rock piles
Rock piles

While waiting for the sun to set, I enjoyed the rocks. I collected a few and left these sentinels behind.

Someone I spoke with recommended Suomi Home Bakery and Restaurant, so I had to explore it. I was intrigued with the idea of a Finnish restaurant.

Suomi Home Bakery and Restaurant
Suomi Home Bakery and Restaurant
Pannukakku with Nisu Toast
Pannukakku with Nisu Toast

The pannukakku is on the left side of the plate. The menu describes it as an “oven-baked custard-like pancake.” It was tasty. The waitress asked if I wanted the Nisu with it, which is cardamom toast. I figured I might as well try that, too. I really liked that coffee was included in the price of the meal!

The restaurant is in a building that dates back to 1869. It started life as a furniture store and was the home of the Houghton Knights of Columbus for a time. The Suomi Cafe opened in 1967 and has changed hands several times. The current owner is a young woman named Jamie, who started at the restaurant as a waitress.

While I know that there were a number of visitors there, you can tell that this is a favorite local restaurant. There is a warm feel to the place. In fact, it drew me back for a repeat visit. Also, they list the soups  for the next day on a white board behind the cash register. The first day I stopped in, they were advertising beef stew for Thursday. The next day, they were promoting their clam chowder for Friday.

I didn’t return on Friday. I’m not a fan of the clam.

Houghton is a delightful town with interesting shops and restaurants. It’s home to Michigan Tech. A former student of mine just completed his freshman year there. Too bad Tyler was back home in Kalamazoo, or we could have had dinner together.

Michigan Tech was founded in 1885 as Michigan Mining School. That was in the height of the copper mining boom in the Upper Peninsula. I wanted to know more about the mining history, so I took a tour of Quincy Mine and Hoist.

Quincy Mine sign

That green hunk of rock under the sign is copper, and, according to Donna in the gift shop, it weighs about 1000 pounds. That’s a lot of pennies!

The nation’s first mineral rush took place here in 1843, six years before the California Gold Rush. Immigrants came from across the world came to take part in mining the copper that was in demand for the Industrial Revolution and for munitions for the Civil War.

This mine began operations in 1848 and was in operation for almost 100 years. It was the second largest copper mine in the Lake Superior region. They called it “Old Reliable” as it paid out dividends to its investors consistently from 1862 until 1920. According to the guide, labor unrest in 1913 and the development of less expensive strip mining in other states lead to the eventual closing of the mine in 1945.

Old No. 2 Hoist House
Old No. 2 Hoist House

The first stop on the tour is the the Number 2 Hoist House. It was the pride of the company and a real showplace. It used modern construction techniques of cast concrete with rebar. It was a point of pride for the company; the building was faced with brick and imported Italian tile was used inside. Before we could go inside to see the Nordberg Steam Hoist, we all had to put on hardhats.

Nordberg Steam Hoist
Nordberg Steam Hoist

The Nordberg steam hoist was a marvel of its time. It used the energy produced by the steam so efficiently that it lowered the cost of operating the mine.

The spindle used to wind the cable
The spindle used to wind the cable
Steel cable used in the mine
Steel cable used in the mine

The cable wound around the spindle and ran over a series of wheels and pulleys to the shaft house. It lowered empty cars and pulled up loaded cars.

Rock car and man car
Rock car and man car

The miners would ride three to a seat on the car for as long as half an hour into the mine. The deepest part of the mine was 9,260 feet down the incline, which was 92 levels of mining. After the mine stopped operating, the mine filled up with water. Currently, all the levels beneath the seventh level are flooded.

After marveling at the Nordberg Steam Hoist, we donned heavy jackets that they had available for us and got on the cog wheel tram to descend to an entrance to the mine. Since it was almost 80º that day, sitting in the sunshine in heavy coats and hard hats was a bit uncomfortable, but necessary.

Temperature sign

Yes, it really was that cold inside the mine.

Current entrance to the mine
Current entrance to the mine

The entrance to the mine is through an old adid, which is an auxiliary opening to the mine. It might have originally been used for ventilation or getting rid of water, but it wasn’t for people and ore to enter and exit the mine. It was enlarged for the tour. Also, Michigan Tech used to hold classes in the mine, and they had a classroom built off to the side. Talk about your hands-on learning!

In the mine
In the mine

The electric lights were strung for the benefit of the tourists. The blue light indicates where US 41 crosses the tunnel, hundreds of feet above where we were standing. Miners worked with lights on their hard hats. According to the tour guide, in the early days, they worked by candle light.

The light of one candle in the darkness
The light of one candle in the darkness

Of course, the miners’ eye adjusted to the low levels of light. The tour guide was demonstrating how they drilled into the rock before power tools. There were teams of three. One held what I’d describe as a kind of drill bit and two wielded sledge hammers. They men with the hammers took turns hitting the end of the bit, while the miners holding the bit would give it a quarter  turn between each strike. All this hundreds of feet below ground by the light of one candle.

You would definitely want to stay on good terms with your co-workers.

She showed us improvements in mining equipment, which enhanced efficiency and lowered cost but put miners out of work. The most amazing feature of the section we toured was something called a stope. It was an inclined shaft that connected different levels of the mine. The one she showed us had been constructed before the Civil War. It ran at a consistent angle, connecting three levels in the mine. It was built by miners who never saw further than the light of one candle. Amazing!

After the tour, I wandered about the site a bit, AFTER I shed the heavy coat and the hard hat. I was assured that the coats were washed every six months and both the hats and the coats were sprayed daily. As a former teacher, I had to grit my teeth to make myself put on the hat. Images of head lice were dancing in my head. At least they weren’t dancing on my head.

Martin House at the Quincy Mine
Martin House at the Quincy Mine

Most of the miners lived in company housing. This house was the residence of the Martin family from 1913 – 1925. Joshua Martin was the miner, but he got to spend little time in the house he worked so hard to provide for his family of eleven. He worked twelve hour shifts six days a week. According to the information in the house, Joshua worked for the mine for 35 years. He was killed in a mining accident in 1921. The family continued to live in the house for four more years. I found no explanation regarding why they were allowed to remain. It could be that the mine owners were being generous. Maybe. I find it more likely that one of the sons grew up and was working at the mine and that is why they were allowed to stay in company housing.

Interestingly enough, these houses are still in use today. One of the tour guides said that her house was an old company house. It had been updated, though, with modern conveniences, such as indoor plumbing.

One of the features of the older mine buildings that I particularly enjoyed was the stone they were build from. It is a layered sandstone.

Bacon, anyone?
Bacon, anyone?

Tell me that it doesn’t look like bacon!

I also enjoyed the rusting machinery left outside.

Viking helmet
Viking helmet
Odd spinning wheel
Odd spinning wheel
Industrial era exercise machine
Industrial era exercise machines
Manufacturer's pride
Manufacturer’s pride

Then I left the mine. It was after hours, anyway.

Here is one thing that I was puzzling about in Houghton. They have a lift bridge. I understand that. What I don’t understand is that it seems to have two driving surfaces and I drove across both of them.

Low bridge
Low bridge
Not-so-low bridge
Not-so-low bridge

I am sure there is a reason. I am sure there is someone who could explain it. That person isn’t me.

Another interesting feature is that Hancock, the city opposite Houghton, is home to Finlandia University.

Finlandia University sign
Finlandia University sign

Notice that little sign on the left side of the sign? Are you curious? I was.

Finlandia Sign explanation

Everybody loves a little Frank Lloyd Wright.

Directly across the street is a restaurant I would highly recommend.

Hancock Restaurant

Gemignani’s Restaurant, on the corner of Quincy and Ryan. Or, as they say in Finnish, Yalta Katu and Kukkula Katu.Streeet signs

Yum!

A delightful last dinner in the area.

Next stop, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park.

 

 

Copper Harbor

I was at Fort Wilkins State Park for four days, but it was kind of a “down” time. I wasn’t disheartened, but did find out why black flies are so roundly reviled. I got a bite above my right eye, which swelled up mightily. I also got two on my neck.

One of these eyes is not like the other
One of these eyes is not like the other

I asked the locals what they do about them, and was told that they a) are used to them and b) they wear the Yooper Cologne – bug dope. Unfortunately, I didn’t think to apply any beforehand. A store keeper did offer to sell me something that she said would take the itch away. I didn’t buy it because it wasn’t itching, and the chemicals in the products didn’t sound like something I wanted near my eyes.

I did pop Benedryl on a regular basis, as I seemed to be having an allergic reaction to the bites. Either it was the Benedryl or “black fly fever” which I found referred to in an article published by Perdue University. It described the condition as “headache, nausea, fever and swollen lymph nodes” but they didn’t suggest a remedy. So, I just followed my body’s cue. I slept. And slept and slept some more.

In spite of my reduced tourism activity, I did managed to see a few things.

The road to Miami starts here
The road to Miami starts here

Since I plan to spend time in Florida this winter, it’s good to know that I am on my way.

Copper Harbor Light House
Copper Harbor Light House

If there is a harbor, there must be a lighthouse. They give tours, but to get there, you have to take a boat ride. I wasn’t feeling perky enough to find out when the boat rides were, let alone actually take one.

Looking at the Copper Harbor Light House
Looking at the Copper Harbor Light House

So, I joined this young lady in looking at the light house from the shore.Rock in the water

The Copper Harbor Visitor Center was a very welcoming place. The volunteers there did their best to help all who came in. They had a computer that you could pay to use, but they let you use their wifi for free. Since there were no cell phone signals anywhere in the area, this was most welcome. They had some beautiful lighting fixtures which I think were appropriate for Copper Harbor.

Light in the Visitor Center
Light in the Visitor Center

They had rest rooms open around the clock, a spigot for water and a bike wash rack! I had never seen bike wash rack before. These might be common, but I am not the most athletic type.

Bike Wash Rack
Bike Wash Rack

With all the rain we’d had, I think the bikers could use washing, too. I offered to rinse the guy off, but he declined my offer.

Just how did I get those black fly bites? Well, it happened on the first night, when I went to watch the sunset. It was gorgeous!

Sunset
Sunset

Sunset

No wonder I wasn’t aware I was being bitten.

January's destination
January’s destination

And now, I’m on my way, although I will take a few detours en route.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Munising, Michigan

Welcome to Munising

The jumping off point for visiting the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is Munising, Michigan, a lively little town of about 2,500. They also have a municipal campground with Wifi. With its location on the shore of Lake Superior, I had no trouble with mosquitoes. This was truly a blessing.

I wasn’t too sure that I was going to be able to take the tour. While the water inside the harbor was calm, sheltered by Grand Island, the lake outside the harbor was not. The day I arrived, they had to cancel the last tours of the day, and they told me to call in the morning.

The weather that night was wild. It rained, the wind blew so hard it made poor old Flo feel like a ship at sea, and it was cold. Between waves of weather, I went outside to look for the northern lights. I couldn’t stay out long, but I heard that they were spotted by people in the area. “See the Northern Lights” is still on my bucket list.

The morning was overcast and did not look promising. I called the cruise office around 11:00 and asked if they were going. They said they were, so I booked a ticket for later and took a nap.

When I woke up, the weather was glorious!

I drove into town, got my ticket and found a seat on the upper deck and got settled in.

Life vest demonstration
Life vest demonstration
Safety first!
Safety first!

As we crossed the harbor, the water was very calm.

Smooth water in the harbor
Smooth water in the harbor

There was a bit more wave action once we passed Grand Island, but it really was a smooth trip. Once we got out on the lake, though, there was a noticeable temperature drop.

Extreme hoodie overload
Extreme hoodie overload

People started putting on all the clothes they had with them. This woman had three jackets with hoods attached.

Photo of me on the trip

I was also well-swaddled. Two jackets, a hat and the scarf I knit last winter. I wish I had thought to bring gloves. I had them in the truck.

beginning of the cliff

The cliffs started once we left the harbor. “Nice,” I thought, but hardly impressive.

more beginning

Getting more interesting.

The water is starting to get a little rougher.
The water is starting to get a little rougher.

Miner's

Interesting. Eroded cliffs. This one is called “Miners Castle.”

Painted Rocks

Captain Sliter told us that the brown comes from iron ore leaching through the sandstone. Black is from manganese, white is from calcium and the blues and greens are from copper.

Painted Rocks 3

Painted Rocks 4

Painted Rocks 5

Lover's Leap
Lover’s Leap

Painter Rocks 6

Painted Rocks 7

Cathedral Rock
Cathedral Rock

Notice the pine growing atop Cathedral Rock. All its water and nutrients come from the root that grows from the tree on top of the rock to the shore. Captain Sliter told us that there used to be a rock arch growing under the root, but it eroded away years ago. That is one tenacious tree!

Painted Rocks 11

 

Painted Rocks 10

These were the highlights of the Pictured Rocks, as far as I am concerned. What color!

Painted Rocks 12

The farthest point we went on our tour was Spray Falls.

Spray Falls

And then we turned around for the return trip.

Looking out at the lowest point in the United States
Looking out at the lowest point in the United States

Now, I thought that Death Valley was the lowest point in the United States, but Captain Sliter informed us that the lowest point was really the bed of Lake Superior. The surface of the lake is about 600 feet above sea level, and the depth is about 1300 feet, which means that the bed of Lake Superior is about 700 feet below sea level.

Ship's bell

There is a lot of nostalgia for the old ways of doing things on ships. For instance, they have this bell, but I never saw or heard it used. Modern methods of piloting

I was pleased to see that they have modern methods of piloting available and they use them.

On the way back, we passed by the old lighthouse on Grand Island. It was built in 1867 and was in use until 1910.lighthouse 1867 Grand Island

And then we were back at the dock.

Sunset at the campThat night, we had a glorious sunset. And, in spite of the clear night sky, once again, I missed seeing the Northern Lights.

It’s still on the bucket list.

 

 

Let’s Go to the Falls!

Slowly I turn...
Slowly I turn…

No, not those Falls!

Tahquamenon Falls in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

Lower Falls
Lower Falls

Since I lived in Michigan for almost thirty years, I knew that Tahquamenon Falls were “up there” but I didn’t know much of anything about them, other than people said they were pretty spectacular. I am here to say that they are, indeed, remarkable.

For one thing, there are two sets of falls – the Upper Falls and the Lower Falls. The Upper Falls has one big drop, and the Lower Falls has five drops that cascade around an island. They have boats available for rent that you can row across a lagoon to the island and then hike around to see all the falls up close and personal. I satisfied myself with a stroll along the top.

Me at the Lower Falls
Me at the Lower Falls

Another feature of these waterfalls is that the water is actually brown. The brown color comes from the tannins that leach from the cedars in the swamps surrounding the river.

The Upper Falls
The Upper Falls

Furthermore, there are mounds of naturally occurring suds in the river beyond the falls. This happens as a result of the soft water, the aeration caused by the falls and naturally occurring lignin proteins found in decaying organic matter, if I understand correctly. At least, that is what the sign said.

Naturally occurring foam
Naturally occurring foam

On the day I visited, the river was flowing at 4,751 gallons per second. Just for the sake of comparison, Niagara Falls flow rate is about 150,000 gallons per second. Still, this was pretty impressive for a relatively small river.

Lower Falls
Lower Falls

The rock that the river flows over is sandstone. There are a couple different types of sandstone, one is harder than the other. At one spot, they point out fossilized ripples from the floor of an ancient ocean that used to be here.

Ripples in the sandstone
Ripples in the sandstone

I didn’t actually go down to the edge of the river due to the unwanted attentions of Michigan’s second state bird, the mosquito. If I kept moving, they kind of trailed behind me like a cloud. When I would stop to take a picture, or to admire the view, they would catch up and swarm around me. It was so remarkable that people along the trail told me that they saw it happening. I was dressed in protective clothing and had bug repellant and I don’t think I got one bite while I was at the falls. However, it wasn’t pleasant.

I stopped and spoke with a ranger at the Fact Shack near the Upper Falls. She was displaying a Lamprey Eel that that took from the river at the base of the Lower Falls. It is an invasive species that is native to the Atlantic Ocean. It’s now found in all of the Great Lakes – and the Tahquamenon River. It attaches itself to a host fish with its suction cup mouth until it eventually kills the host fish. This one was posing for its close up. Those teeth look fearsome.

The mouth of the lamprey eel
The mouth of the lamprey eel

One thing that I appreciated about the trails to the river’s edge, especially around the Upper Falls, was that they told you how far down it was from the trail. Personally, I would appreciate warning signs like this in all areas of life. Who wouldn’t want to know how close to the edge they are?

Warning sign

 

 

 

 

So, Soo, MI!

No, don’t sue ME – Sault Sainte Marie, in the Upper Peninsula. “Sault” is pronounced “soo” and most people refer to it as Soo, as in, “I’m going to the Soo.”

If you are going to the Soo from Hartwick Pines, and you are towing a trailer, the most logical route is over the Mackinac Bridge. While the route is logical, the pronunciation isn’t. It is pronounced “Mack-in-aw.”

Mighty Mac, as it is sometimes called, is currently the longest suspension bridge in the western hemisphere, and the fifth longest in the world. It’s about five miles long, and the middle segment between the towers is 3,800 feet. At that point, you are about 200 feet above the Straits of Mackinac, which connect Lake Michigan to Lake Huron.

The bridge opened in 1957. My friend, Teri, always called it “Daddy’s Bridge” because her father worked on building it.

Teri celebrating her 50th birthday by taking a ride to Mackinaw Island
Teri celebrating her 50th birthday by taking a ride to Mackinac Island

I didn’t get a picture of the bridge this time. It’s hard to get into position when you’re towing a 27 foot trailer. But, if you want to see what it looks like and learn more about the bridge, just go to mackinacbridge.org

Traffic was a little slow, as they had it shut down to one lane in each direction. You don’t want to defer maintenance on a structure like this! I must admit, though, that these signs did give me pause.

Closed

Not to worry! Just two of the lanes were closed. They are updating their computer systems so that we will be able to pay the toll by credit or debit cards. Incidentally, it cost $8 for Flo and Bart to cross the bridge. Cora and I got to go along for the ride.

A ferry heading for St. Ignace
A ferry heading for St. Ignace from Mackinac Island

After another 50 miles, I arrived at my campground at Brimley State Park. I stayed three nights.

The view from my door at Brimley State Park
The view from my door at Brimley State Park

It was a nice place, right on the shores of Lake Superior.

Sunset on Lake Superior
Sunset on Lake Superior

The big draw, as far as I was concerned, was seeing the Locks at the Soo. And, boy, did I get lucky with my timing! I arrived at the locks just as one ship was leaving and another was getting ready to go through.

Heading toward the lock
Heading toward the lock
The Algomarine getting ready to enter the MacArthur Lock
The Algomarine getting ready to enter the MacArthur Lock
About one quarter of the way into the lock.
About one quarter of the way into the lock.

I was quite taken by the scrapes on the bow of the ship. Apparently, they don’t interfere with its seaworthiness. Scrapes

scrapes 2

I do love interesting texture!

Plimsoll lines
Plimsoll lines that indicate the  amount of freeboard that the ship has above the waterline
The whole ship is in the lock
The whole ship is in the lock
Making the ship fast
Making the ship fast
Closing the lock
Closing the lock
The lock is closed
The lock is closed

Now that the lock is closed, they open up the tunnels that allow the water to drain out of the lock. Lake Superior is 21 feet higher than Lake Huron. There are rapids at this part of the St. Marys River that impedes navigation. The water starts to drain out and the ship starts to lower.

Going
Going
going
going
going
going
Down.
Down.

Then they pull in the lines, open the locks and sail out.

Opening the lock
Opening the lock
Going
Going
Going
Going
Gone.
Gone.

There is an excellent viewing platform that allows you to get up in the air for a bird’s eye view of the whole procedure. There is only about 30 inches of clearance on each side of the ship. The teamwork it takes is quite interesting.

One of the people on the platform with me called out to the ships’ hands and asked what they were carrying. The Algomarine was carrying wheat on this trip.

Interestingly enough, the first lock on the river was built on the Canadian side, but it was destroyed in the War of 1812. The first locks on the American side were built in 1855. There are two major locks in use for commercial shipping on the American side, another that is used infrequently and one that is slated for replacement. On the Canadian side, there is one lock that is used for recreation and tour boats.

After all that work of watching the ship pass through the lock, I found it necessary to take a bit of light refreshment. I adjourned to a nearby establishment.

Lockview Restaurant Sault Ste. Marie

I’m just a sucker for old neon!

Cross Another One Off the Bucket List: Hartwick Pines State Park, Michigan

Green is the color of the day
Green is the color of the day

Hartwick Pines has been on my list of things to do since I heard about it at a meeting of the Michigan Geographic Alliance back in the ’90s. Imagine a stand of virgin forest that somehow escaped the logging industry that put Michigan on the map.

Hartwick Pines was named after Edward E. Hartwick, who died of illness in France in 1918. His wife, Karen, donated a section of unlogged forest to preserve his memory.

forest

Canopy

The forest is in good shape and it is doing what forests do. As the trees reach the ends of their lifespans, they die.

A standing dead tree is called a snag.
A standing dead tree is called a snag.

They serve as homes for birds, bugs and small mammals. Eventually, they fall.

Returning to the earth
Returning to the earth

The nutrients return to the earth. New trees start to grow. Sometimes new species of trees take root. The forest continues.

Along the trail, there is a museum dedicated to logging. One thing I learned that never occurred to me was that much of the logging took place in the winter. The snow made it easier to move the logs. I suppose the lack of mosquitoes didn’t hurt, either.

Big Wheel
Big Wheel

When they would need to move the heavy logs about and they didn’t have snow to assist them, they used an implement called a Big Wheel to help them.

Big Wheel

There is also a chapel along the trail. oddly enough, it was so overcast that day that I could barely see inside it, in spite of the windows.

Chapel
Chapel

I  had a lovely campsite at the park. I got it backed in on the first pass!

Flo through the trees
Flo through the trees

The morning I was getting hitched up to head to the Upper Peninsula, the sun finally broke out.

The view from my door
The view from my door

Wildflowers

Wildflowers 2

Ferns

It was a green and glorious day!

 

 

 

 

Ka!amazoo (I’ll be back – I promise!*)

I spent a lovely two weeks back in Kalamazoo, Michigan. What made it so lovely,  you might ask. Well, the people! I lunched and supped with many friends of long-standing. I played Team Trivia three times – and I think our team even came in first once.

Just a small sample of some of the friends I managed to see.
Just a small sample of some of the friends I managed to see.

I made a new friend when I visited a friend in her studio.

A new friend
A new friend

And, of course, you have already heard of my new Travel Cat, Cora.

Cora: Co-pilot Rescue Animal
Cora: Co-pilot Rescue Animal

I managed to get some doctor appointments in and I got new glasses.

These are my new glasses. Same style as the old ones, but purple. Jazzy!
These are my new glasses. Same style as the old ones, but purple. Jazzy!

And some shades.

My future's so bright...
My future’s so bright…

One day, I took a trip out to Allegan to pick up the OTC meds and vitamins I take. I am all set for a year!

A great source for cheap generic OTC drugs and such.
A great source for cheap generic OTC drugs and such.

I stopped to take a look at the landmark iron bridge while I was in town.

Allegan's Famous Iron Bridge
Allegan’s Famous Iron Bridge

The bridge was built in the 19th century to replace an earlier wooden bridge. It cost $7532.25 to build it in 1886 and “only” $552,000 to restore it in 1983. It’s a one-lane bridge, so you have to wait for a green light before you can cross. It’s kind of fun to take the bridge, even if it means you have to wait a few minutes. It’s kind of a transportation artifact you can actually use.

Summertime in Kalamazoo means it’s time for festivals. While I was there, I managed to squeeze in three of them – but only because they were all happening downtown on the same day.

The first one I got to was the KIA Art Fair in Bronson Park. It is a juried art fair and has really excellent work for sale. It was fun running into old friends. Some were strolling, some were selling and some were volunteering. That’s one of the things I love about Kalamazoo. Everyone is involved.

Kalamazoo Institute of Art Art Fair in Bronson Park
Kalamazoo Institute of Art Art Fair in Bronson Park

A block or so away, there is another art fair. This group of artists is self-selected, I believe. They create with enthusiasm.

Art on the Mall
Art on the Mall
Kalamazoo's finest on a Segway. We're up to date!
Kalamazoo’s finest on a Segway. We’re up to date!

Incidentally, Kalamazoo used to be known at “Mall City” because it was the first city in the United States to turn a street into a pedestrian mall. This took place back in 1959. In 1998, two blocks of the mall were changed back to allow a single lane of automobile traffic.

And, yes, I did have to look up the dates.

If you walk all the way down to the end of the mall and then head right to the Arcadia Creek Festival Place, you come to the third simultaneous festival – Greek Fest.

Welcome to Greek Fest
Welcome to Greek Fest

Greek food, vendors of all sorts, music, and belly  dancing,  if you happen to hit it at the right time.

There are things happening all summer long. I missed the annual Do-Dah Parade and the monthly Art Hop. I’m sure there are other things I missed as well. If you are curious about the happenings in Kalamazoo, might I suggest www.discoverkalamazoo.com?

One thing I didn’t miss, though, and that was National Donut Day. The holiday was created in 1938 to honor the women who served donuts to soldiers in World War I. Naturally, I had to celebrate at one of the best donut shops in the country – Sweetwater’s Donut Mill.

Sweetwater's Donut Mill - one of the best in the USA!
Sweetwater’s Donut Mill – one of the best in the USA!

_________________

* How do I know I’ll be back? Well, I visited doctors. Once you reach a certain age, if you visit one doctor, chances are you will have a repeat engagement. I visited five. How marvelous to be so popular!

Introducing Ms Cora!

Cora: Co-pilot Rescue Animal
Cora: Co-pilot Rescue Animal

One of the first things I did upon arrival in Kalamazoo was make arrangements to welcome my new Travel Cat. Her previous owner was moving into an apartment that didn’t allow animals. She was happy that her kitty was going to someone who would love her and give her a good home.

I decided to rename her to reflect her new role. I had hoped she would be my co-pilot, so I named her Co. A Facebook Friend suggested adding the “ra” for Rescued Animal. So, Cora, it is!

I am not so sure about the co-pilot idea. The first trip – about 50 miles – didn’t go so well. I couldn’t get her into her carrier, so I put her in the harness and clipped her leash onto the headrest in the cab of the truck. She wedged herself deep under a seat. It took several hours to get her out. I finally slid the seat all the way forward and pulled her out. She was not happy and neither was I.

When it was time to move to the next spot, I tried once again to get her into the carrier. Again, I couldn’t get her in. This time, I decided to let her ride in the trailer. It was a cool day and overcast, so I figured that she wouldn’t overheat.

75 miles later, I got to the evening’s destination. I opened the door, went in, set out her food and looked for her in her favorite spot in my bedroom. She wasn’t there! I looked all over. I opened cabinets, pulled all the blankets off the bed, and I even did all that twice. There just aren’t that many places to hide in an Airstream.

I finally figured that she must have sneaked out while I was preparing to leave Woodland Travel Center, where I had a little maintenance done. I called them, and they sent all the workers out to look.

It was a sad night. I slept fitfully and got up at dawn to go back to the RV center and look for my kitty. Imagine my surprise when she crawled out of a space I didn’t even know was there!

I was so glad to see her! I let her eat and drink and then I brushed and petted her and asked her not to do that again. I also called the good folks at Woodland Travel Center to let them know she was found, and to thank them for their concern.

And then, I took care of the entrance to her hidey hole.

What would we do without duct tape?
What would we do without duct tape?