Taliesin West: the Saga Continues

After passing the Chinese terracotta, we headed to the dining room that has been relocated to the other side of the building. They told us that the tour included a snack, but this was an elegant light lunch.

snack

As we tucked in to our tasty treats, we were spoken to by Wright Fellow Arnold Roy.

Arnold Roy Fellow

It was inspiring to hear from one of the Fellows that actually worked with Wright. The Fellows can stay on as long as they care to live in community with the current fellows. They move to Taliesin in Spring Green, Wisconsin with the rest of the crew in the summer. In fact, I think I may have see him when I was there last summer.

beyond the sign

The lunch was lovely, but this sign is what made our tour of Taliesin West so special. We got to go to parts of the campus that are closed to the random, ordinary visitor.

random building

Not all the buildings were identified by functions – at least, I didn’t hear it if they were. I liked the cool airiness of this building. I imagine that it might have been a very pleasant dwelling.

rooflineThe roofline of this building is striking.

Chairs in living room

We sat for a while in one of the living rooms. I believe that our guide told us that these chairs were replicas. Only recently were the original chairs removed when it occurred to the foundation how much they were worth. They offer the replicas for sale now. I didn’t stop to find out how much they cost. I just don’t have the room in the Airstream for things like that.

pot sticking out through glass

They had a couple of these large pots that stuck out thorough holes in the windows. The guide told me that is was part of the idea of bringing the outside in and the inside out. I kind of wondered if they put a hole there because that is where they wanted to put the pot – but the shelf wasn’t wide enough. They were just making it up as they went along a good portion of the time.

Guest house

This is the guest house. I believe the guide said that there were four bedrooms and a couple living rooms in it. It used to receive a lot of use, but since the Frank Lloyd Wright archives moved to Columbia University in New York a couple of years ago, there have been fewer visitors.

guest house detail

We passed by the end of the guest house.

Wall with lines and gate

Through the gate we went and into the Wright’s quarters.

fireplace in frank's bedroom

Of course, Frank had a fireplace in his bedroom.

frank's beds

I found it interesting that he had two beds. Our guide told us that the one closer to us was taken outside for him to sleep on for his afternoon naps. Mrs. Wright had her own room, but I didn’t work quickly enough to capture a shot of it to include in this post.

frank's bathroom

I was able to grab a shot of Mr. Wright’s bathroom, though. It looks quite modern. I wonder if it has been redone.

shelves in frank's bedroom

A shelf with some of Mr. Wright’s possessions.

shifting shadows

Outside his suite, you can see how the shifting shadows were used in the design of the space.

moon gate

The orange circle in the wall is a moon gate, which was used to pass from one garden into another. This is the view from his bedroom suite.

Bruce Pfiffer's house

The farthest point of our trip was Bruce Pfeiffer’s house. Bruce was the foundation’s archivist, and he selected this design out of the archives of unbuilt works. Wright had originally designed this house for Ralph Jester, who was a costume designer for some famous Hollywood movies, such as The Ten Commandments and Solomon and Sheba. Jester didn’t care for Wright’s design and it wasn’t built.

As I approached the building, I have to admit that I didn’t care for it either. I didn’t feel the warmth that I felt toward the other buildings on the campus.

Bruce Pfiffer's house 2

Bruce Pfeiffer needed a house for himself and his father. Olgivanna suggested that he use one of the designs in the archive, and the house was finally built.

Round room

Once I was inside, however, I felt completely different. It was a very inviting building. There were three large round rooms. It seemed that the father had one and the son and the other. The third was a living room.

round house patio detail

There was a small, interior courtyard with one of the sprite statues in it.

round fountain and yard

Off the living room was a large terrace. Our guide told us that in the original plans, the lawn was to have been a pool with an infinity edge. The water would go right over the lip of the pool and be recycled.

Round house nestled in the landscape

On the way back to the main part of the campus, I turned to look back at it one more time. I liked it better after having experienced it.

Windows with squares

I spied these windows with square covers when we passed from one place to another. I didn’t see how they worked from the inside, but I am sure that they did the job. They looked interesting from the outside.

tower

The campus is quite large, with many courtyards and buildings. I lost track of how this tower related to the rest of the buildings. I was taking notes as fast as I could, but I just couldn’t keep up with listening, walking, taking pictures AND taking notes.

detail from Cabaret theater

The last official stop of the tour – which lasted 45 minutes longer than the three hours that was advertised – was the Cabaret Theater. This is a detail from the passageway. Entertainment that they created themselves was a large part of the life of the Fellows.

All the tours passed through this point. We had to wait for our turn until another group finished up, and there was a tour right behind us. In addition to telling us about the building, we got the pitch to become members of the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust. They offered an attractive discount if we joined on the spot.

My friends, Konnie and Michael, were waiting for me, so I bid Taliesin West adieu and headed out.

Shaded courtyard

It was hard to leave such peace and return to the hustle and bustle of modern Phoenix.

Taliesin West: Part One

Any of you who have been following my budget blog posts already know that I don’t send my money lightly when it comes to entertainment and tourism. However, when it comes to Frank Lloyd Wright tours, I don’t skimp. I opted for the $70 Behind the Scenes tour – the most expensive tour they have listed.

I’m not bragging, just letting you know.

Not only was this tour expensive, it was scheduled to start at 9:15 AM and they wanted us to be there 15 – 30 minutes ahead of time. I am not a morning person anymore. Thirty years of getting up to teach has cured me.

Luckily, WestWorld was only a mile or two away from Taliesin West, so it wasn’t too painful to get there on time. I may have been the last member of my tour to check in, but I made it!

Our tour guide was a dynamo! She may have walked with a cane, but the rest of us had to focus to keep up with her.
Petroglyphs

Our first stop was this grouping of petroglyphs that were found on the property. She pointed out one of them that Wright adapted for the Taliesin logo.

Taliesin Logo 2

It’s pretty easy to pick out the one that inspired Wright’s design. The next stop was the office.

Office fireplace

Of course, Wright would design a fireplace into his office. I imagine that it was for warmth as well as for its design qualities. While the desert is warm, there are cool mornings and nights. Also Wright was 70 when he began building Taliesin West in 1937. A little warmth during the cold times would be especially appreciated.

While we were in the office, our guide pointed out Wright’s proposal for a new state capital. He did it pro bono, but it wasn’t accepted.

State capital design pro bono

Years after his passing, however, the spire was built on a corner. I spotted it when I was out an about, and I thought it looked a little Wright-esque. I was pleased to find that I was right.

Part of the unbuilt capital's design in a shopping center

The door to the office was unique.

Office door

And you will notice the red floors and details. Cherokee red – a color that Wright used in many of his buildings. In fact, we were told that he always had a new car and that he went right out and had it painted Cherokee red. That was a bit of Wright trivia that I had never heard before.

Sculpture yard

We paused to look at these sculptures in a courtyard outside the music hall. They were all made by Heloise Crista. She had started out as one of Wright’s Fellows, but decided to follow her sculpture interests. If I understand correctly, she still lives here and is continuing to work.

This quote greeted us as we entered the music hall.

Laotse quote

At the top of the music hall, there were some models.

Ocatillo near Chandler 1928 first home

This is a model of Ocotillo, Wright’s first attempt at an Arizona residence. He was going to work on a hotel in near Chandler. Unfortunately, the soil wasn’t suitable for building. They abandoned the site and the building materials were scavenged by the Apaches living in the area.

Lego Taliesin West

This model of Taliesin West was built out of Legos. When Wright was alive, he had a completely natural desert landscape. According to the guide, he told his wife, Olgivanna Lloyd Wright, who was 30 years his junior, that she could change things after he was gone. The model reflects the orange grove she put in as well as grass and other plantings.

Music hall

The grand piano is one of Wright’s pianos. He was a music enthusiast and often accepted fellows based on their musical ability.

Set up for Easter

While our guide was talking, people came in and started setting up for a brunch the following day. The guide was not amused. She said that she was scheduled to be in the music hall at that time. They did stop, though, and let her finish her presentation.

In theater

This structure was to the side of the stage. It looks like a fireplace to me, but the curtains would suggest that it is something else.

Drafting building

This is the back of the building with the drafting room.

Goose eggs details

All the building was done by Wright’s Fellows. They took to using round river stones around the larger mountain rocks to keep the cement in place. If it covered the large rocks, they would have to scrape it off. Wright liked the technique and called them “goose eggs.”

Wall with cactus growing out

It’s fairly easy to see a rounded stone sticking out of the wall, but if you look a little further down the wall, you can see a cactus growing out of a hole.

Cactus close up

According to the guide, the cactus was planted there by a bird and is just growing there. I wonder how long it has been there and how much longer it will survive?

Drafting studio with pool

We came around the corner and were greeted by an unexpected expanse of green. I imagine that all the green was thanks to Olgivanna.

nestled in the landscape

This is the other side of the building with the drafting hall. It was designed to be cooled by the breezes blowing across the shallow pool, up the steps and into the door, which was thrown open to take advantage of the weather.

This view really shows how the buildings nestle into the Arizona landscape.  In Wright’s words, “Arizona needs its own architecture… Arizona’s long, low, sweeping lines, uptilting planes. Surface patterned after such abstraction in line and color as find ‘realism’ in the patterns of the rattlesnake, the Gila monster, the chameleon, and the saguaro, cholla or staghorn – or is it the other way around—are inspiration enough.”

Eminent domain

This is the view from this building. Wright was really angry about the electric wires that were strung across his view and through his land, thanks to eminent domain. The dining room used to look out on this vista. After the wires were strung, though, he moved the dining room to the other side of the building.

Old dining room

The windows above the bright bougainvilleas are from the original dining room. Now it is used as office space.

As we approached the dining room where we were to have our snack, we passed one of Wright’s Chinese terracottas.

Chinese Terracotta 2

Wright was an art collector and he acquired a dozen of these sculptures. They were broken when he got them, but one of his Fellows managed to repair them. The Fellow returned to continue and tend to the terracottas, but I think he has since passed on. The birds would come and snatch the pieces as they would break off and drop to the ground. You can see where some pieces should be that aren’t anymore.

And this is where I’ll pause for now. Come back for the next installment to see the rest of the tour.