The Petrified Forest and The Painted Desert

The next day, I got hitched up and headed toward the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert. It was only a two hour drive, so I planned to see the park the same day.

I had been there before, in 1987, after my first year teaching in Kalamazoo. I had my first brand-new car and I did what any sensible person who likes to travel and drive would do: I drove to California.

Ah, I loved my car! It was a Dodge Lancer, and it looked like this:

Lancer the Wondercar

In fact, it even had a theme song, sung to the tune of Popeye the Sailor Man.

Lancer, the Wonder Car,
Takes me places near and far.
I drive and drive ’til there we are,
In Lancer, the Wonder Car.

Hmm…Maybe I need to come up with a song for Bart.

Anyway, back to this trip. I got to the park and stopped in the Visitors Center to see what information I could collect.

Petrified Forest Nationa Park sign

Then, I set out to explore.

Painted Desert

The Painted Desert was the first part I came to. When I was here before, I don’t remember the colors being so vivid. Perhaps the day was overcast.

Welcome to the Painted Desert Inn

The next stop was the Painted Desert Inn. It has just undergone a restoration, so it was quite something to see.

The original Inn was built of petrified wood in the 1920s. The Civilian Conservation Corps reworked the building in an adobe style in the late 1930s. It never had more than guest six rooms, and it appears that its main function was as a place to eat and take refreshment.

Soda bar at the Painted Desert Inn Harvey HOuse

The building is now used as a museum.

Lower Entrance with exposed petrified wood

Around the lower entrance, some of the petrified wood was left exposed.

Cat Petroglyph

A very striking cat petroglyph is in the lobby. I’d never seen such a naturalistic petroglyph before.

Fred Kabotie, Hopi Artist
Fred Kabotie, Hopi Artist

There are murals there by Fred Kabotie. They represent various aspects of the Hopi Culture.

Three Peaks and Corn Planting
Three Peaks and Corn Planting
Salt Lake Mural
Salt Lake Mural
Hopi Buffalo Dance
Hopi Buffalo Dance

The furniture for the Inn had been built by the CCC. This chair had been restored to its former glory.

Original CCC chair

For an Inn with only six rooms, the building was fairly massive looking.

Painted Desert Inn from the back

I read in some of the literature there that there was a guest room that could be viewed. I asked the ranger about it, and he took me and several other visitors to see it.

Painted Desert Inn guest room door

It looks like the door was what I always heard called a “Dutch door”. The bottom could remain closed and the top part opened for ventilation or light.

Fireplace in guest room

The rooms had their own fireplaces, although there was a radiator in the room.

Sink in guest room with mouse trap

The rooms also had their own sinks.

Light fixture in Guest room

The light fixture was attractive, and the ceiling made use of the exposed wood and beams.

Other than that, there was barely enough room to change your mind. A bed, a chair and a nightstand or dresser would take up all the rest of the floorspace.

Painted Desert Inn west side detail

This is the view directly above the room. Those two vigas on the right side of the picture are right above the door.

US Geologic survey marker Painted Desert Inn

I found this benchmark for the U.S. Geological Survey in the gardens behind the Inn.

View from the Painted Desert Inn

This is the view from the patio. Quite attractive, don’t you think? Too bad it’s not possible to book a room there anymore.

Route 66 sign in cement

My next stop was Route 66.

Route 66 ran along side the phone poles

Route 66 ran right along the phone poles.

I found a tumble weed on Route 66

I found a tumble weed lodged against the fence. Luckily, another group of visitors came along just in time to snap my photo. I did leave the tumbleweed behind.

The next stop was Puerco Pueblo, which was right along near the banks of the Puerco River. There were petroglyphs!

Puerco Petroglyphs 1

There was a variety of styles on the rocks.

Puerco Petroglyphs 2

You can see more geometric designs as well as representational shapes.

Puerco Petroglyphs 3

People were represented, as well.

Puerco Petroglyphs 4

This bird looks like a fearsome creature.

Puerco Petroglyphs 5

This is an interesting combination of abstract and representational petroglyphs.

Puerco Petroglyph solar calendar

This little circular one is probably the most interesting, though. It’s actually a calendar. On the solstice, the sun shines on it through a space in the rocks. Then they knew it was time to plant.

Puerco Petroglyphs solar calendar photo showing light on the solstice

I snapped this photo from one of the signs. The arrow points to the sun shining on the calendar.

There were also ruins at this location.

Puerco ruins kiva

The sign said that this was a kiva. If you weren’t sure about what a kiva is, no worries! I looked up the definition for you: “An underground or partly underground chamber in a Pueblo village, used by the men especially for ceremonies or councils.”

Puerco ruins rooms 1

There were also rooms for living spaces.

Puerco ruins rooms 2

You can see more rooms here.

Puerco ruins rooms 4

There were more rooms. The signs said that we were walking over the ruins. I imagine there are many more discoveries to be made.

When I returned to the parking area, I had a happy surprise.

side by side Airstreams

Another Airstream had parked right next to me! I left them a card with a greeting. When we passed each other later on, we gave each other the Airstream salute. We flashed our lights and waved. It’s always fun to see another Airstream.

Teepees

The next stop along the way was a site called the teepees. Some day I will get a camera that allows me to zoom in better, but it you use your imagination, you can see why they were called the teepees.

Teepees 2

I gave you the teepees at this point, just so you could rest your eyes a bit. Next up: Newspaper Rock!

Newspaper rock overview

Newspaper Rock is actually a collection of rocks that tumbled down from the cliffs above. According to the information I have, the petroglyphs were created from 650 – 2000 years ago.

Oh, you can’t see them? Let’s see if I can zoom in a bit.

Newspaper rock close up

There are more than 650 designs pecked into the desert varnish exposing the lighter stone below.

Newspaper rock more

I haven’t stopped to count, but I don’t think I saw all 650 designs.

Newspaper rock again

On the other hand, maybe I did.

Newspaper Rock yet again Kokopelli?

Is that Kokopelli there? Might be!

Again, this was a location I originally learned about from Sister Jeanne in art history class. As far was I am concerned, that woman was a national treasure!

It’s time to move along. I’m at the Petrified Forest National Park, and so far the only petrified wood I’ve see has been in the gift shop and used in building the Painted Desert Inn. Where’s the forest?

Blue Mesa 1

Finally! Here’s some petrified wood at the Blue Mesa.

Blue Mesa 2

I wonder if all this petrified wood was lying here exposed when the Puebloans lived in the area?

Blue Mesa 3

If so, did they make use of it?

Blue Mesa 5

This one looks like it must have extended out from the earth for quite a while before it broke off.

yellow flower

I love it when I find a flower growing that I haven’t seen before. I don’t know what it is, although it reminds me of a poppy.

On to the Jasper Forest.

Jasper Forest 1

Do you see all the tree trunks lying about?

Jasper Forest 2

Since there are relatively small chunks of petrified wood here, I wonder if they were washed down by rain runoff. I wonder how long that would take in a desert?

Jasper Forest 3

Here’s a log still embedded in a rock formation.

Change happens slowly. Here is a photo of some logs taken in 1883.

Jasper Forest 1883

And the same logs in 2013.

Jasper Forest 2013

One last look at the Jasper Forest before moving on.

Jasper Forest 4

It would be a lot more impressive if we could actually walk up and touch all those logs, but I guess we have to preserve things for the future.

There were a few more stops in the park, but the parking areas were full. My eyes were also getting full, so I decided to see if the rumor was true. I read somewhere that there was free camping at the rock shops at the southern entrance to the park.

Free camping

YES!!! Free camping! Not only was the camping free, but they had petrified wool you could actually walk right up to and touch.

Petrified wood by my free campsite

This piece was right by my door. Beautiful!

They had petrified wood all over the place. It is Arizona’s state rock, after all.

Petrified wood at the campsite

I wonder when these trees actually started growing?

Petrified wood at my campsit round

How long did it take for the minerals to replace the wood?

Wood

And just where did these incredible colors come from?

Cyrstal forest museum

The sign says “OPEN” but the door said “CLOSED”.

Nevertheless, free camping, up close petrified wood, and kitsch abounding.

dinosaur statues

Who can beat that?

Teepee

Maybe they even offer free accommodations. I don’t know, but there are doors into the teepees. I had my own bed, though, so it didn’t matter to me.

Next stop: Winslow, Arizona!

On the Road from Taos to Michigan

Flo in the mirror

I hitched up Flo and began the long haul from Taos to Kalamazoo. It’s a trip of about 1500 miles, so it took several days.

The first part of the trip was “scenic” which meant that I had both hands on the steering wheel and both eyes on the road. Needless to say, I didn’t see much of the scenery. But the roads were good and the traffic light.

By the time I got to Denver, the traffic was no longer light, but the drivers were incredibly courteous. I had people waving me in and letting me know that they were waiting for me. I wonder if all cities have citizens who are so generous during rush hour?

The view from my door at the Fort Morgan campsite
The view from my door at the Fort Morgan campsite

The first night, I stayed at a free – yes FREE – campground provided by the good people of Fort Morgan, Colorado. They set aside one parking lot in a large city park for people to camp in. They have a few 20 amp outlets for people who would like to plug in, and provide information about where to go for a dump station, water and showers. They allow people to stay for up to five nights. I only needed one night, and with my solar power and batteries, I didn’t need the electricity. I was touched by their hospitality.

The next night, I stayed at a municipal park in Utica, Nebraska. It was a small park a couple miles off I-80. I missed taking a photo of the view out my door because a neighbor was mowing his lawn and I wanted to respect his privacy. The next morning, it was raining. This site cost $10 and they had water and electricity and there was a pool in the park, if I had wanted to look into  it. Many of the smaller towns along the interstate in Nebraska have municipal campgrounds. I think this is mighty hospitable of them.

See the rabbits? (Cedar Rapids, Iowa)
See the rabbits? (Cedar Rapids, Iowa)

I drove across Iowa without spending the night. I loved the rolling hills. It almost seemed like a green ocean voyage.

The view from my door at Fisherman's Corner, on the banks of the Mississippi
The view from my door at Fisherman’s Corner, on the banks of the Mississippi

My third night of the trip was spent in Illinois on the banks of the mighty Mississippi at an Army Corp of Engineers facility, Fisherman’s Corner. It had water and electricity and provided a dump station. With my interagency pass, it was only $9 for the night.

I had wonderful luck with the weather on this trip. I kept hearing about the horrendous storms hitting all around, but I managed to settle into a trough between the fronts. My luck finally ran out in Indiana.

A view of the angry looking Lake Michigan from Indiana Dunes State Park.
A view of the angry looking Lake Michigan from Indiana Dunes State Park.

I spent two night at Indiana Dunes State Park and the weather was just miserable. I felt so sorry for all the tent campers there. I spent my time in the trailer, cleaning, resting and watching TV.

By the time I got all cleaned up and everything stowed away, it was time for the final hundred mile push down I-94 to Markin Glen County Park in Kalamazoo, and a visit to home and friends. And Doctors.

More about that in my next installment.